Susie’s Breadcrumb Stuffing Recipe

This is an updated version the stuffing recipe my mom always made for Thanksgiving dinner, only instead of Pepperidge Farm Herb-Seasoned Stuffing mix, I use a blend of whole wheat panko, sea salt, black pepper and fresh sage and thyme. (It would work with regular whole wheat breadcrumbs, too.) This recipe serves 8-10 and doubles easily for a bigger crowd. You can make the stuffing a day or two ahead, spoon it into a baking dish, cover and refrigerate. On Thanksgiving, spoon some pan drippings from turkey over the stuffing and pop it in the oven while the turkey rests.

1 (9-ounce) package whole wheat panko breadcrumbs (such as Ian’s)
1 tablespoon minced fresh sage
1 tablespoon minced fresh thyme
1 teaspoon sea salt, plus additional to taste
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus additional to taste
1/2 teaspoon onion granules
1/2 teaspoon garlic granules
2 tablespoons butter
1 cup finely chopped onion (1 medium)
1/2 cup shredded carrot (about 1)
1/2 cup finely chopped celery (about 2 stalks)
1/3 cup finely chopped parsley
1 large egg, lightly beaten
1-1/4 cups chicken stock
1/2 cup toasted walnuts
1/4 to 1/2 cup pan drippings from turkey

Preheat oven to 425 degrees F.

Combine first 7 ingredients; set aside.

Melt butter in a large saucepan over medium-high heat. Add onion, carrot, celery and a pinch of salt and pepper; saute 3 minutes or until tender. Stir in parsley; cook another minute. Remove from heat, and stir in the egg and chicken stock. Stir in panko mixture and walnuts. Transfer mixture to an 8-inch baking dish. Spoon 1/4 to 1/2 cup pan drippings from the turkey over the stuffing. Bake at 425 F for 25 minutes.

Serves 8-10

Another Egg Recall

Another week, another egg recall. This time, Cal-Maine Foods is voluntarily recalling potentially salmonella-tainted eggs the company purchased last month from Ohio Fresh Eggs. For details on the brands being recalled, visit the Egg Safety Center. The eggs were sold in 8 states: Arkansas, California, Texas, Illinois, Iowa, Kansas, Missouri and Oklahoma.

And, it seems, all roads for tainted eggs lead to factory farmer Jack DeCoster these days. DeCoster was at the center of last summer’s huge egg recall and, it turns out, he’s also the largest investor in Ohio Fresh Eggs.

For more information about choosing and handling eggs, check out Kurt’s story, “Egg’s Got You Scared? Here’s the Scoop.”

The USDA’s Twisted Message

While researching an article about veganism for this month’s issue of Natural Health magazine, I interviewed Neal Barnard, M.D. When it comes to vegan matters, all roads eventually lead to Barnard, who’s the founder of the vegan advocacy group, the Physicians Committee for Responsible Medicine.

I confessed that, no, I’m not a vegan.

“What’s holding you back?” he asked.

My deep love of cheese. I couldn’t–still can’t–imagine a life without Parmigiano-Reggiano, cheddar, goat, Manchego…

“You know, cheese really is addicting,” he countered. “At 70% fat, it’s the nutritional equivalent of Vaseline, and I really think it’s the reason for so many tubby kids these days.”

He also observed that Americans eat an insane amount of cheese–about 30 pounds per per year, per person. “Americans eclipsed the French in cheese consumption some years ago,” Barnard added.

The USDA–the same government agency responsible (jointly with the Department of Health and Human Service) for developing the Dietary Guidelines for Americans–is working with fast-food companies to develop new ways to encourage Americans to eat more cheese, which we all know is contributing to our collective obesity epidemic.

When Barnard says cheese is addictive, he’s not exaggerating. He devotes a chapter to cheese in his book, Breaking the Food Seduction: The Hidden Reasons Behind Food Cravings (St. Martins), explaining how cheese contains concentrated levels of morphine-like opiates that occur naturally in cow’s milk (similar opiates are found in human breast milk, too–they help calm an infant). He also discusses USDA-funded programs to boost cheese consumption, and an article in The New York Times this weekend–“While Warning About Fat, U.S. Pushes Cheese Sales”–details how this government/industry relationship works.

That’s right, the same government agency responsible (jointly with the Department of Health and Human Service) for developing the Dietary Guidelines for Americans is working with fast-food companies to develop new ways to encourage Americans to eat more cheese, which we all know is contributing to our collective obesity epidemic. On the one hand the USDA shakes its finger at us for being too fat, while on the other it works with Domino’s, Pizza Hut, Burger King, Dairy Queen, Subway and other fast-food chains to develop tempting new menu items featuring cheese.

Where’s the moderation in Pizza Hut’s Ultimate Cheese Pizza, which features a pound of cheese per pie and was promoted with funds from the USDA’s Dairy Management marketing entity?

The USDA wants to have it both ways. On the one hand, it maintains that, eaten in moderation, cheese has a place in a healthy diet. We agree with that. A sprinkling of feta on your salad is moderation. But where’s the moderation in, say, Pizza Hut’s Ultimate Cheese Pizza, which features a pound of cheese per pie and was promoted with funds from the USDA’s Dairy Management marketing entity?

We reported recently about the upcoming Dietary Guidelines for Americans 2010, which the USDA and HHS are finalizing now. Those guidelines are important, since they influence key programs like standards for school lunches. As the Advisory Committee’s report notes, the amount of saturated fat Americans eat is a key concern, and cheese is the top contributor of saturated fat in the American diet. We’ll be curious to see how prominently cheese is featured in the final version of the the guidelines.

Celery Root, Potato and Apple Mash

Celery root (celeriac) is a knobby, homely-looking root vegetable with mild celery flavor that pairs deliciously with apple and potato. Cutting the dense-textured celery root into smaller pieces than the potato ensures both finish cooking at the same time. Use any variety of apple for this recipe. I picked up the trick of simply mashing the potatoes and other veggies with a whisk from Jennifer Shaertl’s clever book, Gourmet Meals in Crappy Little Kitchens. Serve with our Spiced Pork Roast, Simplest Roast Chicken or Crispy Duck Breasts with Maple-Bourbon Sauce.

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How “Local” is Your Local Food?

UPDATE: We first shared this news in September. Now a new story by David Karp for the Los Angeles Times details how Southern California’s largest farmers’ market operator may have protected a vendor known to sell wholesale produce from Mexico as his own. As the whistle-blower in this case notes, farmers’ markets aren’t all “peace, love and hippies.”

I love visiting the local farmers’ market, shopping for peak-season, pesticide-free produce and supporting local growers. And, like many shoppers, I trust that the vendors are the real deal.

Not always. A new NBC-LA investigative report of Los Angeles-area farmers’ markets finds that not all vendors are legit. While most are selling genuine locally grown fare, more than a few are cutting corners. The report reveals “farmers” buying “local” produce from as far away as Mexico at the wholesale warehouse in downtown LA. Lab results also discovered that vendors touting pesticide-free fruits and veggies were, indeed, selling wares that had been sprayed. (Your best bet to ensure farmers’ market food is pesticide-free is to buy from certified-organic vendors.)

Lia has said it before, and we’ll say it again, you have to get to know your farmer. Even better, plan a little day trip to visit the farm. You might be reassured–or surprised–by what you find.

Alphabet Soup: The Lastest News on BPA

I recently found myself in the grocery store dithering over one of my favorite pantry staples: Canned tomatoes. I knew the canned versions come with a sidecar of bisphenol A (BPA), a substance with some serious health risks. Lia touched on those concerns when she wrote about the challenges of finding BPA-free containers for Noemi’s school lunch. And in recent months, there has been some news on the BPA front.

bpa-bisphenol-a-canWidespread use, widespread risk

BPA is an organic compound used to harden plastics for water bottles, baby bottles, the lining of canned goods and all manner of plastic goods. It leaches into water and food, and it has been used in food cans for more than 50 years. BPA is detectable in the urine of 93% of the population, according to some estimates.

The problem? BPA mimics estrogen in the body and is thought to disrupt hormone function. The President’s Cancer Panel’s recent Reducing Environmental Cancer Risk report notes that a broad range of studies have linked BPA to breast and prostate cancer, diabetes, heart disease and early puberty (which is why parents are particularly concerned about exposing their kids to the stuff). A 2008 study in the Journal of the American Medical Association reported that adults with higher urinary levels of BPA also have higher rates of heart disease, diabetes and liver problems. Some studies even suggest it interferes with cancer treatment. The Environmental Working Group (EWG) has named BPA among the “dirty dozen” endocrine disruptors to avoid.

The latest news

Earlier this year, the Food and Drug Administration re-evaluated BPA (after declaring it safe in 2008). The agency agreed there’s “reason for some concern” about BPA, but declared the research (most of which has been done on animals) too limited to call for an outright ban on BPA. The FDA and National Institutes of Health are funding $30 million in new research into BPA’s safety–or lack of it.

Meanwhile, the Environmental Protection Agency is considering whether to add BPA to its Concern List of hazardous chemicals. While the EPA doesn’t have jurisdiction over BPA in food packaging, an EPA ruling would cover, for example, BPA in thermal cash register receipts that you get at the store. [UPDATE: The EPA has since declined to initiate regulatory action regarding BPA, though the agency will continue to monitor research on the effects of BPA on human health.]

While government agencies investigate BPA’s hazards, can manufacturers continue to stand by it. In April, the Can Manufacturers Institute (CMI) issued this statement: “CMI continues strongly to support the use of BPA epoxy coatings and believes our coatings are essential to food safety … Human exposure to BPA from can coatings is minute and poses no health risk that has been recognized by any governmental authority.”

Well, perhaps no American government agency has said outright that BPA is unsafe. But last month, Environment Canada, the Canadian version of the EPA, declared BPA toxic and is considering regulatory action that could be announced by the end of this year.

Consumer demand trumps regulation

In the meantime concerned American shoppers and consumer advocacy groups like the Environmental Working Group have prompted food manufacturers and retailers to get BPA out of our food supply. Last month, As You Sow, a nonprofit organization that promotes corporate social responsibility, and Green Century Capital Management, an investment advisory firm that advocates environmentally responsible investing, released their Seeking Safer Packaging 2010 report, which grades companies on their efforts to remove BPA from food packaging.

Hain Celestial, ConAgra and Heinz receive top marks for developing and testing BPA alternatives and starting to remove BPA from can liners;  they also have time lines for eliminating BPA use entirely. General Mills gets a B+ for transitioning BPA out of its Muir Glen canned tomato products, starting with this fall’s tomato pack.

Among retailers’ private-label canned goods evaluated in the report, Whole Foods got the top grade: D+, because although Whole Foods is transparent on its stance regarding BPA–it opposes the stuff, obviously–it’s not actively developing alternatives, according to the report. (The natural foods giant, though, does “strongly encourage” suppliers to transition to BPA-free packaging where possible.)

But using BPA-free cans isn’t new, says Sonya Ludner, senior analyst with the Environmental Working Group. She notes that Eden Organic has used BPA-free cans in the late 1990s for all its canned bean products. Eden simply asked its supplier–Ball Corp.–to use the enamel liners made from vegetable resins that it was using before the introduction of BPA. It’s a solution that works for nonacidic ingredients, but not for acidic items like tomatoes. Manufacturers also are using alternative forms of BPA-free packaging. For instance, you can buy POMI’s tomato products in aseptic boxes or Lucini’s tomatoes packed in glass jars.

As the report’ s authors note, eliminating BPA is a good business move in response to growing consumer concern. “Companies are actually moving faster than regulators in phasing out BPA,” says Emily Stone of Green Century Capital Management.

Amy Galland, As You Sow’s research director, notes that this year 32% of companies have time lines to phase out BPA from packaging, up from just 7% last year.

Ludner says consumer demand, spurred by advocacy efforts by groups like the EWG, is driving this change. “I see a ton of momentum behind this, and I’m thrilled to see some action.”

Easy All-Purpose Tomato Sauce

I make this when great fresh tomatoes aren’t in season and I need a basic tomato sauce for pizza or pasta. The trick these days, of course, is finding preserved tomatoes in a BPA-free container. While many manufacturers are working to phase out use of BPA in canned goods (Muir Glen is using its first BPA-free cans for this fall’s tomato pack), right now the only way to know your tomatoes are BPA free is to buy them in an aseptic or glass container. Adding a dash or two of Worcestershire deepens the flavor of this tomato sauce recipe.

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Our Casual Spanish Dinner Menu

NOURISH Evolution community member Karen dipped into our archives to make this cozy braised chicken dish, using local chicken and tomatoes she’d canned at the end of the summer. We think you’ll love it, too, especially paired with a simple salad and side. It’s delicious for a casual dinner with friends, and any leftovers will provide tasty a tasty lunch or supper later in the week.

To start:

You don’t need to get too fancy. Fresh salad greens tossed with our Go-To Vinaigrette will deliver maximum flavor for little effort. Top with shaved Manchego, a Spanish sheep’s milk cheese.

Main event:

Smoked paprika and sherry vinegar (you can sub red wine vinegar in a pinch) lend Spanish flair to our easy Braised Chicken and Chickpeas  with Smoked Paprika. Even better, the whole thing comes together in less than an hour. Prep the salad and side dish while the chicken braises.

On the side:

You’ll want a loaf of crusty bread to sop up every bite of the chicken. A sidecar of Spicy Sauteed Rainbow Chard with Golden Raisins adds extra color to the plate.

For dessert:

We’re celebrating NOURISH Evolution’s first birthday this week, and you can join the fun by making our Spiced Pumpkin Harvest Bundt Cake with Pecans. Enjoy it after this supper, and nibble on it throughout the week–tuck a slice into everyone’s lunch box for a special treat! (OK, I admit, I’d probably have a slice for breakfast with a cup of coffee.)

To sip:

Pick up a bottle of Spanish red Rioja or a syrah to complement this menu’s bold flavors. Want to know your own wine personality? Take this quiz!

Win a Free Copy of “Simply Ming One-Pot Meals”!

Confession time: I’ll often pull out two or three pots and pans in the course of making dinner, which is not exactly, um, efficient. That’s why I’m so excited about Ming Tsai’s new book, Simply Ming One-Pot Meals: Quick, Healthy & Affordable Recipes (Kyle Books).

This week, we’re giving away a free copy of Simply Ming One-Pot Meals: Quick, Healthy & Affordable Recipes!

Chef Ming’s latest book is filled with 80 delectable recipes. Some, like kung pao chicken with brown rice,  Thai basil shrimp risotto or beef, shiitake mushroom and broccoli stir-fry, have his signature Asian flair. Others draw from Western cuisines: garlic osso buco with celeriac, chicken meatballs with penne and tomato sauce, and panko-crusted turkey “scaloppini” with warm mango-cranberry chutney. And all are whipped up in one pan or pot, which will make after-dinner cleanup a breeze. And we all know that’s a blessing on a busy weeknight.

But, friends, you have to enter to win this cookbook of one-pot wonders!

So here’s the deal. Only NOURISH Evolution members are eligible to win, so now’s the time to join if you haven’t already! Then, head on over to the Thursday Giveaway group in our community area and leave a comment to be entered to win (important: be sure you’re signed in to NOURISH Evolution so we can find you).

Lia will announce the winner in next Friday’s Friday Digest!

Good luck!

Tastemakers: Easy Extras Add “Wow” to Your Food

People ask me why the food they cook at home doesn’t taste as special what they get in restaurants. That doesn’t mean their home-cooked fare isn’t wonderfully delicious–it is–but I know what they mean: Cooking in restaurants often has an engaging complexity and nuance that’s a step up from home cooking.

There are many reasons for this. Chefs–good ones, anyway–are willing to track down top-quality ingredients. They’re not shy about using flavor-enhancing salt, butter and cream. Even more importantly, they take the time to prepare little extras that add flavor and texture to many of their dishes. I worked at a restaurant where the mayonnaise was always made in-house, as was the dough for the flatbreads. We made pureed garlic confit,* which was used to add mellow garlicky flavor to everything from salad dressings to lentils.

Thomas Keller has a similar preparation in his inspiring book, Ad Hoc at Home (Artisan), as part of a long chapter “lifesavers.” These include house-made nut butters, flavored oils, chutneys, jams and pickles, and they provide the delicious backbone for some recipes and the finishing touches for others.

Making a batch of Carnitas de Lia this weekend inspired me to make my own piquant finishing touch. As I rubbed the spices onto the pork shoulder, it occurred to me that I needed some pickled red onions, which are a traditional accompaniment to provide a refreshing tart-sweet, crunchy counterpoint to the rich pork and guacamole. And because they’re so easy to make, I put together the following Quick-Pickled Red Onions in, oh, about 10 minutes. They were great with the carnitas, and I’ve also been enjoying them tucked into quesadillas and, this afternoon, on an egg salad sandwich.

We have lots of other extras that are easy to prepare and will make your cooking anything but basic:

  • Homemade Mayonnaise: It’s a far cry from the jarred stuff and will elevate even the basics like egg salad.
  • Spicy-Sweet Pickled Cucumbers: I made these all summer long and basically ate them with everything.
  • Fragrant Curry Paste: Add this to a stir-fry, whisk a little into plain yogurt for a dipping sauce, combine a bit with mayo for a zesty sandwich spread, or stir it into some cream and chopped tomatoes to make a speedy curry sauce.
  • All-Purpose Asian Dipping Sauce: I’d whisk in a little cornstarch to make this an ideal stir-fry sauce, too.
  • Asian Pesto: It’s delightful over rice noodles and it makes a great sandwich spread; also try it whisked into a salad dressing.
  • All-Purpose French Lentils: Lia calls these “the little black dress of dinner,” since you can serve them as a side, toss them in a salad or enjoy them as an entree.

Once you start playing around with different ways to use components like these, you’ll see that the recipes aren’t the end goal, but the start–or end–of something extra-special.

* That garlic confit is super-easy to make: Place peeled whole garlic cloves in a saucepan, add enough olive oil to cover, and simmer until very tender. Drain, reserving the oil (because it now has wonderful garlicky flavor, too!), and mash the cloves with a whisk or a fork. Store the oil and garlic separately and use them within a week.