In Defense of Kale

Apparently, there has been kale backlash lately. Here’s what I have to say about it.

Tough. Not the kale, the backlash.

Timeless Kale

This is precisely the kind of thing that ticks me off. I am all for vegetables taking the limelight (hallelujah!). But the minute a certain vegetable is deemed trendy, we’ve seriously lost our way.

And here’s why: On a NOURISH Evolution, everyone gets to discover at their own pace. That means I may be wild for leafy greens while you’re having an epiphany about broccoli. One is no better or “cooler” than the other. What’s cool is that we’re both scooting forward on our NOURISH Evolution by falling in love anew with a nourishing food.

So please, please, please don’t let an article or blog post about kale being “so last year” convince you to pass up this salad. Because that would be sad.

Christopher and I are in the midst of a new year’s cleanse right now, which was the impetus behind this salad. I always find cleanses–and fasts–so illuminating.

It’s amazing what emotions come up when you say no to things you’re so used to saying yes to. For me, there are straight up cravings to be sure. But fear, insecurity and entitlement also get kneaded into the mix.

At my worst, I’m wearing a very. grumpy. face. and a woe is me attitude as I stew on all the things I can’t eat right now. At my best, I’m able to delight in the flavors and textures and beauty of all I can eat right now. I can also objectively chew on just how attached I am to feeding myself what I want, whenever I want, as soon as I’m hungry, and how that attitude is affecting the rest of my life … even when the norm is nourishing meals.

I find saying no to be a healthy calibration from time to time.

So I hope you’ll see this salad not as an austere new year’s penance, but for all it has to offer: The beauty of the radicchio slivers and the light green avocado set against the dark green kale; the tangy dressing offsetting the meaty leaves; the crunch of the coconut as a counterpoint to the toothsome chew. And I hope you’ll see kale–and all vegetables–as timeless.

 

 

 

Kale Salad with Toasted Coconut Chips

I’ve been wanting to do a kale salad for a long time, and this is the one I wanted to make. Rubbing breaks down the cells and softens the kale, yet leaves all of its meaty taste.

kale-salad

3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lime juice
1 teaspoon tamari sauce
2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar
1 teaspoon honey, liquified
2 tablespoons minced scallions
4 packed cups Tuscan kale (also called dinosaur or black kale), zipped, cleaned and torn into bite-sized pieces
1 cup julienned radicchio
1 cup cilantro leaves
coarse sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 avocado, cubed
1 cup toasted, unsweetened coconut chips

Shake together the oil, lime juice, tamari sauce, cider vinegar, honey and scallions in a tight-sealing jar.

Place the kale in a large bowl and rub a handful at a time between your palms as if you were warming your hands together. You’ll feel the kale “soften” after 15 seconds or so. Then grab another bunch and do the same thing until you’ve rubbed all of the kale.

Toss the kale, radicchio, cilantro a generous pinch of salt and pepper together in the bowl and pour dressing over top. Toss well to thoroughly coat and top with avocado and coconut chips.

Serves 2

 

Making Ketchup Dreams Come True

Have you ever made something so good that you thought, I should bottle this and sell it! For most of us, that’s just a passing fancy. But Erika Kerekes, a working mom and food blogger in Santa Monica, CA, actually did it and just launched her line of Not Ketchup condiments with three flavors: cherry chipotle, blueberry white pepper and smoky date.

not-kechup-erika-kerekes

{Photo of Erika Kerekes by Christina Peters Photography}

It’s “not” ketchup because the Food & Drug Administration has ruled that condiments without tomatoes can’t be labeled “ketchup.” (Of course the FDA is wrong, and ketchup has been made for centuries with all manner of fruit.) But it’s delicious by any name. Here’s how Erika got it from her kitchen to store shelves.

When did you first realize you had an idea for a product you could sell?

I’d taken the kids on our annual cherry-picking trip up to [Southern California’s] Leona Valley, where we picked 30 pounds of cherries. After I’d made pie and cobbler and jam, I still had 15-plus pounds left. So I started thinking about what else I could do with the cherries … and somehow I hit on ketchup. I think it came to me in a dream, quite literally.

I knew it was a winning idea when my husband tasted it and said, “Wow!” He hates tomato ketchup, but he’s loved every flavor of Not Ketchup I’ve put in front of him.

Not Ketchup started your kitchen, but you recruited experts to help you get it ready for prime time. Who’s on the team?

I knew I didn’t want to make it in small batches in a commercial kitchen — if I was going to do this, I was going to plan for large-scale output.

First, I hired Barry Weinstein, an experienced food technologist, to help me turn my home recipe into a formula a factory could use to make the sauce in an industrial setting. From him, I learned about food safety — there are things you have to do when you make a product that’s going to sit in a bottle on a shelf for 12 months that you wouldn’t have to do in your own kitchen. I also had to source the main fruit ingredients, which ended up coming from different companies up and down the West coast.

Real fruit had to be the first ingredient on the label. And the ingredient list had to stay short and have only pronounceable ingredients.

Then I found a co-packer (also called a contract manufacturer) to manufacture the sauce from the formula Barry and I developed. Heiden’s Foods in Fullerton, CA, is one of the few co-packers where startups making smaller batches are welcome. Owners Dawne and Derek Walker helped me understand the nuances of getting all the necessary approvals, having all the pieces in place and controlling manufacturing costs.

What were the biggest challenges?

The hardest thing was sourcing the fruit ingredients. In a smaller factory like Heiden’s, I didn’t have the option of starting with fresh fruit, because it takes too much time and capacity to boil off the water that’s in fresh fruit. So I had to find ingredients that met my strict standards (no sulfites, no added sugar), worked in our formulas, delivered the taste and texture I wanted, and were available in relatively small batches. I made a lot of phone calls and did a bit of begging. Ultimately I found great suppliers who were happy to bend their rules to get me what I needed.

The rest of it was relatively easy because I was working with Barry and his 30-plus years of experience developing food products. I said, “I want it to taste like this and pour like this,” and he knew exactly how to get there based on my original recipe, the sample I gave him, and his knowledge of industrial ingredients.

Where did you refuse to compromise?

Originally I wanted the product to contain only unprocessed ingredients, but ultimately the only way we were able to maintain the right texture and flavor profile for the 12-month shelf life was to add a thickener (xanthan gum) and natural flavors.

But I stood firm on a few things. Real fruit had to be the first ingredient on the label. I used two unprocessed (and relatively expensive) sweeteners: demerara sugar and honey. And the ingredient list had to stay short and have only pronounceable ingredients.

Are there plans to offer a certified-organic version of Not Ketchup?

I hope to offer an organic line once the products are selling well and the brand is established. However, it’s already an expensive product in the ketchup category at $8.99 — the fruit is very expensive compared to tomatoes. So we’ll have to see if the market will support the added cost of producing it with certified-organic ingredients.

Not Ketchup is available at five stores in Los Angeles, and you can order it from Not Ketchup’s online store. It’s great on burgers, used in glazes on grilled fish and poultry, or as part of cheese plate. Meanwhile, I’m looking forward to trying the Cherry Chipotle on sandwiches with leftover Carnitas de Lia.

Are You Ready to Start an Evolution?

I dug into the January issue of Bon Appetit over the New Year break and was psyched to see it dedicated to “The New Healthy.” I felt like the NOURISH site was lifted to the Bon Appetit pages, and am SO psyched that the conversation about enjoying a life free of processed food and full of fresh, seasonal, real food has reached the mainstream.

But something stood out that made me say, “I beg to differ.”

chage-america-you

Dan Barber, the Executive Chef and co-Owner of Blue Hill at Stone Barns and one of the pillars of the modern sustainable food movement, states in a chef photo spread, “The future of healthful eating is going to be in the hands of chefs, much more than nutritionists or doctors.”

I agree that lasting change is not likely to happen at the hands of doctors or nutritionists, but I personally don’t think it’s going to happen at chefs’ tables either. You know who’s going to make the tidal shift in America?

You are. You and me and every home cook doing what it takes to get dinner on the table during busy weeknights.

I don’t dispute that chefs will inspire us, and I am grateful for that. Here in Healdsburg, I’m continuously in awe of how Spoonbar Chef Louis Maldonado elevates local, seasonal vegetables and sustainably caught fish to a fine art (I just recently made this Brown Rice Mushroom Porridge as a riff on his version at Spoonbar). And I’m psyched to see him get national acclaim for doing so on Top Chef … did you see what he did with broccoli on episode nine of Last Chance Kitchen?

But real, lasting change across America isn’t going to happen with sous vide carrots. It’s going to happen with dishes like this Leek, Lemon and Cauliflower Fettuccine (I used whole wheat spaghetti last night and it rocked). With dishes loaded with vegetables that are easy to cut up and get in the pan. With dishes packed with so much flavor that the whole family tucks in happily without goading, and that reheat for easy, healthy lunches the next day. With meals that use only a couple of pots and a cutting board so they don’t take forever to clean up afterwards.

I happened to make this pasta last night with a gorgeous head of organic cauliflower grown in the garden of our local Shelton’s market, and I’m thankful to have that choice. But if that makes you roll your eyes and think it’s too hard or too expensive to buy local and organic … don’t feel judged! That’s OK. Do what you can. If you’re committing to buying organic at Whole Foods this year, terrific. If you’re just getting familiar with the outer perimeter of your local Safeway, good on you … you’re forging into new territory and that’s a good thing.

The point is, no matter where you are on your NOURISH Evolution, taking one step forward this year will make a difference. So make this cauliflower pasta … you’ll be changing the course of history when you do.