Get a New Grain: Oats

With all the different types of oats out there, it can get confusing. Is one superior to the other? Is one healthier than another? Here’s the simple scoop: Oat groats are whole oat kernels that have had the hard outer hull removed. Steel cut oats are groats that have been cut into three or four pieces (they’re termed “pinheads” for their appearance, which you can see in the photo below). Rolled oats (sometimes termed “old-fashioned rolled oats) are groats that have been steamed and rolled flat. Quick-cooking rolled oats are steel-cut oats that have been steamed and flattened, as is instant oatmeal, only cut into smaller pieces. All of these forms of oats have the three beneficial whole grain parts intact; the texture is all that differs. But beware; instant oatmeal does often come with added sugar, fat and preservatives.

oats-postWhat They Look Like: Whole oat groats look a bit like plump, dull-sheened brown rice with a dimple running lengthwise. Steel-cut oats are dull, buff-colored, medium-sized grains (they look somewhat like bulgur) with jagged edges. Rolled oats are flat and powdery, and instant oatmeal is the consistency of coarse sand.

What They Taste Like: Oats have a lovely, very mild nuttiness to them. Because their flavor is so neutral, they’re a good whole grain to cut your teeth on—in whatever form you choose. Oat groats have a rice-like texture to them with a bit more toothsome chew. Steel-cut oats are dense and chewy with a delightful “pop” at the core. Rolled oats cook into a porridge-like consistency, with quick-cooking oats turning slightly runny and instant oatmeal pushing mushy.

How to Cook Them: For groats and steel cut, cook oats in a 1:3.5 ratio of oats to water. Heat a bit of butter in the pot and toast the oats before adding the liquid, then bring to a boil, cover, reduce heat to low and simmer for 45 minutes for whole groats, 25 minutes for steel-cut oats. For rolled oats, use a 1:3 ratio and bring water to a boil, then add oats, reduce heat and simmer for 5-15 minutes for rolled oats and just 1-2 minutes or quick-cooking oats.

How to Use Them: Oats are, obviously, terrific breakfast food in whatever form you like. But also try leftover groats or steel-cut oats (before you flavor them) in place of rice in stir-fried rice or seasoned with savory additions and served like a risotto.

Additional Notes: Steel-cut oats in fancy cans can get expensive, but they’re downright cheap in bulk. They’re also incredibly healthy; starting in the 1960s, a significant number of studies identified a type of soluble fiber in oat bran, called beta glucan, as a major contributor in lowering total and LDL cholesterol. What’s more, that filling feeling from eating a bowl of oatmeal—which has actually been measured and quantified in the development of a Satiety Index–may help maintain a healthy weight.

(For more information on whole grains, see Gotta Get Your Grains. Also check out the other grains in our Get a New Grain series.)

Pumpkin Spice Oatmeal with Toasted Pecans

This breakfast is downright decadent–like a pumpkin pie in a bowl. Don’t let its sumptuousness rob you of pleasure though, this oatmeal is super-healthy too. It’s loaded with fiber from the pumpkin and whole grain goodness from the oats.

pumpkin-spiced-oatmeal-recipe2 cups cooked steel cut oats
1 cup canned pumpkin (half a 15-ounce can)
1/2 cup low-fat milk
3 tablespoons brown sugar
1 teaspoon pumpkin pie spice (or 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon, 1/4 teaspoon nutmeg and 1/4 teaspoon allspice)
1/4 cup pecans, toasted and crumbled

Stir together all ingredients except nuts in a medium saucepan over medium heat until heated through.

Spoon into bowls and top with crumbled pecans.

Serves 4

Basic Steel Cut Oatmeal

Steel cut oats may surprise you: Sure, they’re great for a healthy breakfast (like in our Pumpkin Spice Oatmeal with Toasted Pecans), but they also make delectable savory dishes too. This recipe makes 8 servings–store leftovers in a covered container in the fridge and reheat, covered, with a bit of milk (for breakfast or sweet recipes) or vegetable stock (for savory ones) over medium-low heat. This oatmeal recipe works on the stove top or in a pressure cooker.

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Making Leftovers Lovable

My friends used to think it strange when I’d invite them over for Thanksgiving . . . in April, when deadlines for food magazine November issues normally came due. But I have to admit to preferring the assignments for creative ways to use leftovers to the grand meal itself. Leftovers have an inherent challenge built into them. “Make me as inspiring as I was yesterday,” they seem to say.  Once you’ve done the reheat and the sandwich, though, then what? Here are three ways I’ve learned over the years to live up to leftovers’ dare:

thanksgiving-leftover-1Think beyond the turkey sandwich. Sure, the turkey-cranberry sandwich is good for a day or two, but try taking entirely new directions too. Toss shredded turkey with chopped artichokes and pasta, or mound it on a baguette with herbs and pickled carrots in a spin on a Vietnamese banh mi. Mashed potatoes and stuffing are delicious formed into “cakes” and fried in a bit of olive oil as a base for sauteed greens, and sweet potatoes can be folded into a farro risotto to add a silken sweetness to the dish.

Go global. It’s easy to get stuck in an all-American rut with leftover turkey, which is too bad. Turkey’s slightly gamey flavor goes well with a variety of cuisines. Try sauteing turkey meat in a chile spice mix for tacos; stirring it into spinach and feta as a stuffing for a Greek pie; or mixing it with white beans and sausage and topping with breadcrumbs for an easy cassoulet.

Make it fresh. If you’re a slave to reheated turkey and potato plates, try keeping your cool. Shredded turkey makes a great addition — or centerpiece — to salads of all kinds (often welcome after the big feast), and cranberries can add zing to salads both sweet and savory. The Asian Turkey Salad below, for instance, incorporates loads of fresh ingredients and bright flavors to give new life to leftover turkey.

The challenge, ultimately, is to make your leftovers as lovable as the original meal itself. If you come up with some new dishes of your own this year, comment below.

Asian Turkey Salad

This fresh, bright turkey salad with Asian flair is quite a departure from the usual all-American Thanksgiving leftovers. But after the big day, it’s a nice, light respite. This salad would also be great any time of year with shredded chicken.

asian-turkey-salad-recipe
Dressing
1/4 cup rice vinegar
2 cloves garlic, smashed
1 (1-inch) piece peeled fresh ginger
1 serrano pepper
2 tablespoons peanut oil
1 tablespoon low-sodium soy sauce OR gluten-free tamari
2 teaspoons sugar
1 teaspoon salt
2 teaspoons fresh lime juice
2 teaspoons sesame oil

Salad
4 cups finely shredded Napa cabbage
2 cups skinned, boned and shredded turkey
1 cup thinly sliced red bell pepper
1 cup coarsely chopped cilantro, plus additional for garnish
1/2 cup thinly sliced red onion
2 tablespoons chopped peanuts
1/4 cup sliced scallion

To prepare dressing, combine vinegar, garlic, ginger, serrano pepper in a blender or food processor and pulse until garlic,  ginger and serrano are minced. Add oil and remaining dressing ingredients and blend until smooth.

To prepare salad, toss cabbage, turkey, bell pepper, 1 cup cilantro and red onion in a large bowl. Mix well with dressing. Divide evenly among 4 plates and garnish with peanuts, scallion and additional cilantro.

Serves 4

Thanksgiving Roundup

It’s been a fun month, pondering traditions, forging new paths and sharing some of our favorite recipes. In fact, we’ve accumulated so much good stuff that we thought it worth creating a roundup before the Big Day.

tgiving-1Gratitude: We kicked the month off, appropriately, with a piece by Kurt Michael Friese on gratitude. And I know more than a few people who are thankful for his Mom’s Wild Rice Dressing recipe that he shared.

Remixing Tradition: Next up was a remake of an old family stand-by for my daughter’s third birthday. The result is a healthier, tastier Remixed Chex Mix that would make a great munchie for post-feast football.

Just Say No: Need a little inspiration to reign in your appetite? Here’s just what you need, along with a recipe for a simple Edamame Spread that would make a colorful start as a Thanksgiving hors d’oeuvre.

A Welcome Thanksgiving: Probing the traditions further, Jacqueline Church told us about her practice of opening the doors wide for the holiday, and shared tips for making every guest feel welcome. Her Boozy Chocolate Truffles don’t hurt.

tgiving-2A Story of Heritage Turkeys: Mid-month, talk turned turkey. Lia researched the story behind the heritage birds, and includes a recipe for Miso-Herb Rubbed Applewood Smoked Heritage Turkey.

Carving New Traditions: Ironically, though, Lia also shares that she won’t be featuring a turkey on her table for Thanksgiving. her family’s tradition centers around a Guatemalan staple, in honor of their daughter, with an Avocado Salad with Arugula and Chile-Lime Dressing as a side.

Le Beaujolais Nouveau Est Arrive: We can’t escape the hype, but Kurt did dig up the story behind this iconic wine to weigh in on whether we should care at all. Whichever way you fall on the wine, don’t miss Kurt’s Grandmother’s Whole Cranberries.

tgiving-3Wherever You Are, There’s the Feast: Cheryl Sternman Rule looked back on her time in Eritrea to uncover the essence of Thanksgiving, and shares this delicious Lentil Soup with Roasted Pumpkin in honor of the experience.

Turkey Time: In preparation for the holiday turkey-buying rush, Lia and Jacqueline put together a primer on what means what in turkey talk. Our “Sans Pan” Cider Gravy is a great option if you’re going to be grilling a bird.

Pair the Bottle to Your Bird: In Thanksgiving preparations, you can’t forget the wine. Here, Lia matched up four wines with four “mock” menus to illustrate basic pairing principles. Don’t miss her Pumpkin Curry if you have a bottle of Gewurztraminer left over after the feast.

Keep Your Eyes on the Sides: Alison Ashton admitted to being smitten with the sweet potato sides. And we’re glad she came clean; her mini Sweet Potato and Kale Bread Puddings are simple, stunning and satisfying.

For all of the great work by our contributors, and for all of you, I am so truly grateful. Happy Thanksgiving, everyone!

Keep Your Eyes on the Sides

There’s much to crave on the Thanksgiving table–and a glorious bird like the Miso and Herb Rubbed Applewood Smoked Heritage Turkey would certainly be something to be thankful for.  A lot of work goes into cooking a stellar bird, but I have a confession: I only have eyes for the side dishes.

thanksgiving-side-dishes-montageYep, it’s true. I’d be happy to skip the turkey altogether, though propriety obliges me to sample at least a little, especially if I’m dining at someone else’s house. Instead, I’d load my plate with mashed potatoes, dressing, biscuits, green beans, gravy, and cranberry sauce. And supreme among side dishes is the sweet potato dish. It’s the Judi Dench of supporting players, so good it outshines the star and takes home an Oscar for, oh, five minutes of screen time.

Of course, sweet potatoes labor under an identity crisis. Mistakenly labeled “yams,” they are neither a yam nor a potato. In fact, sweet potatoes aren’t even botanically related to yams; the misnomer has lingered ever since soft varieties, which resemble the yams predominately found in Africa, were first introduced to the market decades ago. But they are sweet, which can confuse people in the kitchen. Sweet potatoes often are laden with butter and brown sugar, and topped with marshmallows in the classic casserole that many find too much like dessert. (Not me–I love the stuff–pass it all down my way, please.)

Despite their sweetness, these tubers play nicely with savory ingredients, as evidenced in this bread pudding recipe. The sweet potatoes themselves have impressive nutritional credentials–they’re low in calories yet high in fiber and vitamins A and C–and we boost the health factor even higher by using multigrain bread and sauteed kale. The indulgence comes from whole milk and egg yolks, which give the custard a luscious quality, and a touch of full-flavored Cheddar cheese. But baking the bread pudding in a muffin tin offers built-in portion control. A half-cup serving (one bread pudding “muffin”), which is plenty on the crowded holiday plate, comes in at just 134 calories and less than 2 grams of saturated fat per serving.

All of that makes me feel just fine about helping myself to seconds.

A longtime editor, writer, and recipe developer, Alison Ashton is a Cordon Bleu-trained chef. She has worked as a features editor for a national wire service and as senior food editor for a top food magazine. Her work has appeared in Cooking Light, Vegetarian Times, and Natural Health.

Sweet Potato-Kale Bread Pudding

You can bake these savory little sweet potato bread pudding muffins a few days before Thanksgiving; cool and refrigerate. Reheat them in a low oven while the turkey rests. You also can cook this in a 2-quart baking dish instead of a muffin pan, if you prefer.

sweet-potato-kale-bread-pudding-recipe1 pound sweet potatoes
2 cups whole milk
4 large egg yolks
2 large eggs
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 (8-ounce) day-old multigrain baguette, cubed
2 teaspoons olive oil
1 medium onion, chopped
1 (8-ounce) bunch kale, trimmed and chopped
2 tablespoons water
3/4 cup (3 ounces) shredded sharp Cheddar cheese, divided
Nonstick cooking spray

Preheat oven to 400 degrees F.

Pierce sweet potatoes with a fork. Place sweet potatoes on a foil-lined baking sheet. Roast 30 minutes or until tender. Let stand until cool enough to handle.

While sweet potatoes roast, bring milk to a boil. Combine egg yolks, whole eggs, salt and pepper in a large bowl, stirring with a whisk. Add half of hot milk to egg mixture, stirring constantly with a whisk. Whisk in remaining hot milk into egg mixture.

Cut roasted sweet potatoes in half, and scoop flesh into a food processor or blender. Add 1/2 cup milk mixture and process until pureed. Whisk pureed sweet potato mixture into milk mixture in bowl. Stir in cubed bread. Set aside, stirring occasionally.

Heat a large saute pan over medium-high heat and add oil. Add onion and another pinch of salt; saute 5 minutes or until tender. Stir in kale and water. Cover and cook 3 minutes or until kale is tender. Stir kale mixture into bread mixture. Stir in 1/2 cup cheese. Divide evenly among 16 (1/2-cup) muffin cups coated with cooking spray. Sprinkle evenly with remaining 1/4 cup cheese. Bake for 15 minutes or until pudding is puffy, set, and lightly browned. Serve warm.

Serves 16


Pair the Wine to Your Thanksgiving Turkey

It’s got to be the second most popular question circulating these days (just behind, “How do I brine a turkey?”): “What wine should I serve with the Thanksgiving bird?”

You know I’m not one for hard and fast rules, but one way to pare down the choices is to pair to the flavors that predominate in your poultry. I’ve put together four mock menus of birds and fixins to illustrate how ingredients intermingle with wine—some complementing, some contrasting—and how being aware of their interplay can help you create a memorable pairing.

thanksgiving-turkey-wine-pairing

Miso and Herb Rubbed Applewood Smoked Heritage Turkey with Cider Gravy and Sweet Potato-Kale Bread Pudding + Gewurztraminer
Why?
Gewurztraminer is one of those wines everyone seems to like, even if they can’t pronounce it (ahem, Mom, it’s “guh-VOORTS-truh-MEE-nur”). Heady and floral, yet most often bone dry, it shows a surprising affinity for smoke and spice and sweet potatoes.

  • Applewood smoke: To me, a Gewurztraminer brings out the feeling of a crisp evening walk with the faint wisp of chimney smoke lingering in the air. Here, the hint of applewood smoke in the turkey tugs at that note in the wine.
  • Apple cider: The tart fruit and spice profile of cider lines up with that of Gewurz.
  • Sweet potato: Creamy, earthy sweet potatoes pick up the bassier notes of the wine.

I recommend: Navarro Vineyards Gewurztraminer – We love Navarro. Their gewurtz is slightly spicy offset by a bit of sweet, with honeysuckle notes in the nose.

Tarragon-thyme rubbed turkey with roasted fennel, citrus and hazelnut stuffing + Chardonnay
Why?
Turkey may seem like an unlikely partner for Chardonnay. But a bigger wine with a bit of oak will sing with this mix of earthy, aromatic and nutty.

  • Tarragon and thyme: These aromatic herbs will connect with the fruit flavors of the wine from amid the layers of toast and oak.
  • Roasted fennel: The sweet, creamy nature of roasted fennel is a natural with the fuller body and creamy mouthfeel of Chardonnay.
  • Citrus: Citrus in a dish helps accentuate the crisp, acidic finish of a Chardonnay.
  • Hazelnut: Chardonnay has an inherent nutty quality from the oak it’s aged in, which will marry beautifully with the hazelnuts.

I recommend: Martin Ray Santa Cruz Mountains Reserve Chardonnay — Meyer lemon and graham cracker crust on both the nose and palette, with a gloriously crisp, acidic finish that makes it fabulous with food—unusual for a California Chardonnay.

Five-spice rubbed turkey with sweet onion and cherry stuffing + Pinot Noir
Why?
Pinot Noir is a complex wine. While approachable and fruity, it also has many mysterious layers that play well to intricate flavors of spice and sweet in a meal.

  • Five spice: A study in contrast, the light, fruitiness of a Pinot Noir will accentuate the turkey’s aromatic spices.
  • Sweet onion: Sweet onion’s slightly pungent nature brings out the wine’s earthy notes.
  • Cherry: Cherries pull out the myriad fruit flavors of a Pinot Noir.

I recommend: Bonterra Pinot Noir – Blueberry and black cherry carry through from the nose to the palate, where it meets plum and chocolate.

Rosemary-roasted garlic-rubbed turkey with wild mushroom and currant stuffing + Grenache
Why?
One of the lighter red varietals, originally hailing from the Rhone region in France, Grenache has a natural affinity for Provencal ingredients like garlic and rosemary. Some describe it as the Pinot Noir of the Rhone.

  • Rosemary: Grenache has slightly herbal, tones that are highlighted in the turkey’s rosemary rub.
  • Roasted garlic: Mellow, earthy, tingly garlic reaches in and grabs the Grenache right in the middle of the mouth.
  • Wild mushrooms: As fruity as Grenache can be, it is firmly rooted in earth. Wild mushrooms will accentuate its earthy nature.
  • Currant: Currants are an accurate match for Grenache’s fruit flavors complementing the berry notes on both the nose and the palate.

I recommend: Quivira Grenache – Currant and earth predominate without overpowering what’s on the plate.

So this week as you ponder your wine picks, think about the flavor profiles that will be playing on your plate.

Happy Thanksgiving, everyone!

Pumpkin Curry with Chicken Thighs

Any Gewurztraminer left over from Thanksgiving will go beautifully with this creamy, spicy, aromatic pumpkin curry. If you have a lime tree, crumple up a leaf and throw it into the curry as it simmers (then discard)—it will perfume the dish, much as kaffir lime leaves do. Serve over rice.

pumpkin-curry-chicken-thighs1 tablespoon Canola oil
2 yellow onions, thinly sliced
1 tablespoon minced ginger
2 cloves garlic, minced
1-3/4 cup light coconut milk
1 tablespoon yellow curry powder
2 tablespoons red curry paste
1 cup low-sodium chicken stock
2 tablespoons fish sauce
1 tablespoon sugar
6 cups pumpkin, peeled, seeded and cut into 1-inch cubes
1-1/2 pounds chicken thighs, cut into bite-sized pieces
1 red bell pepper, seeded and thinly sliced lengthwise
2 tablespoons lime juice
1/2 cup cilantro, finely chopped

Heat vegetable oil in a wok or large, deep-sided skillet over medium-high heat and sauté onion for 10 minutes, until deep golden-brown. Add ginger and garlic, and sauté 1 minute, until fragrant.

Pour in 1/4 cup coconut milk and stir in both curries until blended. Add remaining coconut milk, chicken stock, fish sauce and sugar. Add pumpkin chunks and bring to a boil. Lower heat to medium to retain a vigorous simmer and cook for 15 minutes, stirring occasionally.

Add chicken and pepper and bring back up to a simmer. Cook for another 10 minutes, until chicken is cooked through and pumpkin is tender.

Stir in lime juice and top with cilantro.

Serves 6