In Defense of Kale

Apparently, there has been kale backlash lately. Here’s what I have to say about it.

Tough. Not the kale, the backlash.

Timeless Kale

This is precisely the kind of thing that ticks me off. I am all for vegetables taking the limelight (hallelujah!). But the minute a certain vegetable is deemed trendy, we’ve seriously lost our way.

And here’s why: On a NOURISH Evolution, everyone gets to discover at their own pace. That means I may be wild for leafy greens while you’re having an epiphany about broccoli. One is no better or “cooler” than the other. What’s cool is that we’re both scooting forward on our NOURISH Evolution by falling in love anew with a nourishing food.

So please, please, please don’t let an article or blog post about kale being “so last year” convince you to pass up this salad. Because that would be sad.

Christopher and I are in the midst of a new year’s cleanse right now, which was the impetus behind this salad. I always find cleanses–and fasts–so illuminating.

It’s amazing what emotions come up when you say no to things you’re so used to saying yes to. For me, there are straight up cravings to be sure. But fear, insecurity and entitlement also get kneaded into the mix.

At my worst, I’m wearing a very. grumpy. face. and a woe is me attitude as I stew on all the things I can’t eat right now. At my best, I’m able to delight in the flavors and textures and beauty of all I can eat right now. I can also objectively chew on just how attached I am to feeding myself what I want, whenever I want, as soon as I’m hungry, and how that attitude is affecting the rest of my life … even when the norm is nourishing meals.

I find saying no to be a healthy calibration from time to time.

So I hope you’ll see this salad not as an austere new year’s penance, but for all it has to offer: The beauty of the radicchio slivers and the light green avocado set against the dark green kale; the tangy dressing offsetting the meaty leaves; the crunch of the coconut as a counterpoint to the toothsome chew. And I hope you’ll see kale–and all vegetables–as timeless.

 

 

 

Zip Some Greens

For years, I was put off from eating greens like chard and kale and mustard because of the cumbersome step of cutting out the stems. Don’t get me wrong, I loved–and still love–their grassy, earthy flavor. And the health benefits of leafy greens, from strong bones to a healthy heart, are legendary. But (insert whine) it took so much time.

And then one day, I honestly don’t remember if I’d read about the technique or was just feeling feisty, I held a big fan of Swiss chard in my fist and just zipped the leaves clean off. It was shocking how quickly it happened. Then I did it again and again, and before I knew it, the entire bunch was de-stemmed and laying in a neat little pile . . . all in less than 60 seconds. It was an easy way to save time and get those greens on the table for a weeknight meal.

Technique for “Zipping” Leafy Greens

  • Hold the stalk firmly in one hand
  • With the thumb and forefinger of the other hand, pinch where the base of the leaves meets the stem and tug gently to separate
  • Continue tugging up the line of the stem, zipping the leaves off as you go (you’ll get the hang of how much pressure you need)

Watch the video here:

Get Your Greens!

My mother never told me to eat my greens, because she never made them. I’m not sure if she didn’t like greens or just wasn’t sure what to do with them (most likely), but spinach, collards, kale and other hearty cooking greens didn’t join my plate until I grew up and discovered I love them.

eat-your-greens

That’s why I’m always look for ways to add greens to the menu. Of course, they’re good for you–rich in a host of vitamins (especially A and C), minerals (like iron and manganese) and phytonutrients. Even better, hearty greens are at their peak right now, and their earthy flavor is a perfect fit for winter meals … right up to the cusp of spring.

Select greens that have fresh, crisp, unblemished leaves; they’ll keep in the fridge for up to five days. Their leaves tend to trap dirt and grit, so you’ll want to wash them thoroughly. I like to zip the leaves from the stems (check out Lia’s speedy technique to “Zip Some Greens“), toss them in a big salad spinner, which I fill with water and dunk the leaves several times (this allows any grit to settle at the bottom) before spinning them dry. Then I tear or chop the leaves as needed.

Though you can use most greens interchangeably, their  flavor ranges from mild to spicy. For substitution guidelines, visit The Cook’s Thesaurus. Here’s a rundown of a few of our faves:

  • Beet greens: If you buy a bunch of beets with the leaves still attached, don’t throw those delicious, earthy-tasting leaves away. Instead, simply saute them, much as you would spinach. Or try them boiled in Mama Kourtesi’s Beet and Green Salad.
  • Broccoli rabe has a pungent, bitter quality that Italian cooks adore. A bit of olive oil and salt helps tame the bitterness. Try it steamed, broiled or braised. In Lia’s Orecchiette with Broccoli Rabe and Sausage, a pot of boiling water does double-duty to cook the pasta and rabe at the same time.
  • The Italians also love bitter chicory, which they boil and serve with a white sauce or puree with a touch of cream.
  • I’ve come to love the mild flavor of collard greens, which generally benefit from long braising. But if you slice them super-thin, as we do with our Quick Collards below, you can cook them quickly with a combo of sauteing and braising.
  • Kale is a part of the cabbage family, so it (not surprisingly) has a cabbage-y quality. Discard the center stem and treat the curly leaves much the way you would spinach. Frilly-leaf kale is the most common variety, but you’ll find other types (lacinato, for example) at farmers’  markets and gourmet stores. Try it in our Crispy Kale Chips or White Bean and Kale Ragout with Turnips and Sausage.
  • For a spicy, peppery bite, try mustard greens, which do well braised with bacon. For an even more assertive selection, try turnip greens (yep, you can use turnip greens in place of the sausage in the ragout).
  • Spinach may well be the most popular variety. Large, mature leaves should be cooked (steamed, boiled, braised), while baby spinach does fine with a quick saute or even raw in a salad. Make a batch of Cheryl’s Stir-Fried Greens with Cremini Mushrooms and Soba.
  • With bright green leaves and colorful stems in a variety of hues, from magenta to orange-gold, Swiss chard is another favorite in the NOURISH Evolution kitchens. It’s hearty enough to braise, yet tender enough to saute. Try it in our Spicy Sauteed Rainbow Chard with Golden Raisins, which incorporates those pretty stems.

This is by no means a complete list. If you visit an ethnic market or farmers’ market, you’ll find many other varieties. Just ask the merchant for tips to cook them. The broader your repertoire of greens, the more often you’re likely to eat them!

Braised Kale Trio

Use a mixture of different varieties of kale–like red Russian, Tuscan and Portuguese–if you can get your hands on them. A local farmer, Bibianna Love, opened my eyes to the incredible variety of flavors and textures between them. Together, they elevate a simple side dish of greens.

braised-kale-trio-recipe
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
2 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
16 cups kale, zipped, cleaned and roughly chopped
1/4 cup vegetable broth
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Heat oil in a large, deep saute pan or Dutch oven over medium heat, and add garlic. Saute for 1 minute, until golden brown and fragrant. Add kale and vegetable stock to pan, season with salt and pepper, and toss well to coat. Cover pan, reduce heat to medium-low, and cook for 2-5 minutes, tossing occasionally, until kale is crisp-tender.

Remove lid and increase heat to medium-high. Continue to cook for 2-5 more minutes, until any remaining liquid has evaporated and kale is tender but still vibrant.

Season to taste with additional salt and pepper.

Serves 4