Tag Archives: community supported agriculture

The Economics of Local Food

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If there are any doubts that local food is a hot commodity these days, you need look no further than the supermarket produce section. And when I say “supermarket” I mean the regular grocery store, not the likes of Whole Foods, which already has a long track record of prominently marketing local products in its aisles. These days, supermarket produce-department signs now tout “locally grown,” and in some cases even highlight specific growers.
economics-of-local-foodWhile I enjoy the convenience of buying produce from local growers when I zip into the store to pick up pasta and loo paper, I can’t help wondering if it’s a good deal for the farmers, too.

It can be, says Mark Marino, of Cinagro Inc., a Carmel, Calif., organic farm and garden design firm. Marino has worked as an organic farmer and horticulturist for over 30 years and knows the often-difficult economics of running a small farm. Selling crops through a variety of outlets–farmers’ markets, CSAs, retail outlets and restaurants–is smart business, he says.

“It affords the smaller to medium farmers a chance to find their economic balance,” says Marino. “It’s a lot like a stock portfolio–you want to have a good mix in there, so if one goes down, you can sell elsewhere.”

Which is the best? That depends.

CSA (Community-Supported Agriculture)

How it works: You buy a share in a farm’s crop for a season and pick up a box of produce at a set location each week. CSAs vary tremendously–some are farm-direct; others are coordinated by a third party. For the basics on how they work, check out “CSA 101.”

Upside: Financial liquidity for the farmer. “It’s huge for a farmer to have that money upfront and not have to pay interest on it,” says Marino.

“One of the advantages of selling through a CSA is that the farmer already has a market and doesn’t have to spend the time selling,” says Erin Barnett, director of LocalHarvest.org.

You get peak-season produce. While you may have a rough idea of what to expect each week, there are bound to be some surprises in the box. If you’re an adventurous cook, it’s a weekly version of a chef’s market-basket challenge in which you’re given ingredients and have to improvise what to do with them.

Downside: “CSAs tend to require a wide range of produce, and it can be challenging for the farmer to keep up,” says Barnett.

You don’t have much control over what arrives in the box each week and may also find yourself looking for ways to use a bumper crop of something you don’t love. CSAs may also deliver more than you can use up in a week, although some also offer half-shares that are ideal for single people and couples. You can also split a share with a friend or neighbor.

Best for: Those who want a direct relationship with a farm. Some CSAs even welcome shareholders to spend a day working on the farm.

Farmers’ Market

How it works: The farmer sets up a stand at a regularly scheduled pop-up market and sells direct to shoppers. Depending on the market, the farmer pays a small flat fee or a commission on sales.

Upside: “The beauty of the farmers’ market is that it’s cash,” says Marino. Farmers don’t have to give payment terms or wholesale prices (as they would to a store or restaurant) so more money stays in the farmer’s pocket.

Shoppers enjoy a selection of uber-fresh produce and often other farm-fresh goodies like eggs, poultry and meats. You’re likely to find more varieties. For instance, instead of one or two types of beets you’d find at the supermarket, a farmers’ market stand will offer three or four. You’ll also have better luck finding ultra-seasonal specialty items, like sunchokes or romanesco cauliflower.

Depending on the market, you may or may not find yourself chatting with the farmer. I live in Southern California, where some growers have stands at more than a dozen markets a week. By necessity, they hire workers to run the stands.

Downside: “Mother Nature,” says Marino. A rainy day will scare shoppers away, which means less money for the farmer.

I’m also spoiled because I live in Southern California, and farmers’ markets are year-round. But for shoppers in other parts of the country, farmers’ markets are only open part of the year. Still, as farmers’ markets gain popularity, many are extending their season for weekly markets and offering less-frequent markets in the off-season.

Best for: Shoppers who want to buy super-seasonal items direct from farmers but need more flexibility and choice than they’d get with a CSA membership.

Stores

How it works: Farmers sell their crops to stores at wholesale prices–usually 50% below retail.

Upside: It provides another outlet for the farmer. “If it’s raining this week at the farmers’ market and no one comes out, they’re still selling to the stores,” says Barnett. Also, the farmer doesn’t have to staff a farmers’ market stand or package multiple boxes for delivery at various pick-up locations for a CSA.

Shoppers–particularly those who aren’t likely to join a CSA or go to a farmers’ market–enjoy a convenient way to support local growers.

Downside: Farmers typically have to wait 30-60 days to get paid by the store. And even then a retailer may balk at paying for items that don’t sell or were mishandled after delivery. “It doesn’t happen often, but it can,” says Marino.

Best for: Shoppers who aren’t interested in a CSA and unlikely to make it to the farmers’ market regularly.

And what about price? Farmers’ markets and CSAs typically have the edge over grocery stores–but not always, says Marino. In any case, he adds, farmers’ markets and CSAs offer a connection to the land and the people who grow your food that’s priceless.

Community Supported … Pasture?

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It’s inevitable. As people learn more about where their food comes from and start to shift their buying habits from whatever’s on the shelf to more deliberate, sustainable choices, they run up against a wall. Where do I find the foods I can feel good about? Happily, in many communities, local food now offers pasture-raised chicken, grass-fed beef, and sustainably raised pork.

community-supported-pasture

Farmers’ markets, CSAs and even community gardens abound these days, offering an abundance of fresh, seasonal produce. From December, 2001 to July, 2005, the number of reported CSA farms rose from 761 to 1,144, an increase of roughly 50 percent. And here’s some more good news: There’s a burgeoning movement on the meat front too.

A growing number of CSA farms are expanding beyond produce to offer meat, poultry and eggs from the pasture. Part of the reason is just smart business; farmers are diversifying their product mix. Another driver for many farmers is the desire to create the closed-loop system that agriculture was meant to be.

What do I mean by that? To explain, I’ll borrow an illustration that Wes Jackson of The Land Institute used when I saw him speak at a conference a couple of years back. He popped a slide of Norman Rockwell’s “Visit From a County Agent” illustration up on screen and then articulated how it encapsulated all the elements that make agriculture work.

Right off the bat, you can see that there are a variety of animals in the photo, and each has its purpose. The cats catch the mice. The dogs ward off predators. The chickens lay eggs and produce poultry. The cows produce milk and meat.

But that’s just the surface. Jackson also pointed out that the chicken and cows were essential for more than just their eggs, milk and meat. Their manure was the gold the land needed to grow the crops that fed the livestock and the family.

There’s your closed loop. Waste from the animals to fertilize the fields to grow the crops to feed the livestock and the family … and on back around again. Compare that to monoculture crops and feedlot cattle—the two ends of the spectrum in a ruptured farming system—where synthetic fertilizer must be purchased to grow the crops, and excess waste from cattle creates toxic cesspools.

If you’ve read Michael Pollan’s Omnivore’s Dilemma or watched FRESH or Food, Inc., the concept of a closed-loop farming system isn’t new to you (nowadays we call it polyculture). What is new, to bring us back around to the topic of this post, is the fact that it’s inspiring more and more small farmers to expand beyond just crops.

Some, like Dearing Country Farms in Illinois, have expanded their CSA produce offerings ($330 for roughly five months of produce) to eggs and chickens ($700 for produce plus a chicken and a dozen eggs each week). Others, like Oregon’s Inspiration Plantation’s “CSP” (Community Supported Pasture), focus strictly on meat; in this case, chicken, turkey, lamb and pork.

As rosy at it may seem to jump into a meat CSA, there are challenges for both farmer and consumer. The first is the added complication and cost of processing; in order to be sold commercially, meat must be processed in a USDA-certified facility. Second is the fact that meat is highly perishable and must be stored—and sold—frozen. Third is a matter of scale: A cow is a lot larger than a head of cauliflower. What’s easiest for the farmer, to sell a side of beef, for instance, is not the most convenient for the customer … unless you happen to have a very large, empty freezer and a penchant for cooking nose to toes. But I’ve found that that’s changing. Most of the meat CSA options I run across nowadays focus on primal cuts and sausages.

So where, you ask—you plead—can you find a meat CSA? The best source I’ve found for direct-to-consumer meat is www.eatwild.org. You have to cull through the listings in each state to find those near you, but it’s worth it for the range it offers. Other resources are www.localharvest.org and www.eatwellguide.org.

Don’t forget one of the major benefits of joining any CSA … to get to know the people who grow, or in this case raise, your food. Who knows, maybe they’re fans of Norman Rockwell.

Nourishing Heroes: Food Advocates Curt Ellis & Ian Cheney

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This is the latest installment in our Nourishing Heroes series, in which we feature the individuals and organizations who inspire us with food that nourishes body, soul and planet. Do you know a Nourishing Hero we should feature on NOURISH Evolution? Let us know who inspires you!

If you attended Yale University about 10 years ago, you may have crossed paths with Curt Ellis (above left) and Ian Cheney (right), members of the class of 2002 who combined a passionate commitment to consciousness-raising with a flair for the dramatic. To underscore students’ desire for Yale’s cafeterias to serve food that was minimally processed, pesticide-free and grown in a responsible manner, the two and their cohorts released live sheep onto the campus quad and brought in kiddie pools filled with manure.

“Part of it was to have fun,” Ellis now acknowledges, “but there were definitely politics involved.”

The Brooklyn-based pair has since gone on to interweave politics, advocacy and entertainment in their careers, most notably through the founding of their production company Wicked Delicate Films. Their 2004 release King Corn, produced and directed by Ellis’ cousin Aaron Woolf, followed the duo as they grew an acre of corn in Iowa and then traced its movement through America’s industrial food system. The film picked up a prestigious Peabody Award, and it came out when the cultural zeitgeist was beginning to focus on the multifaceted perils of what’s now referred to as Big Ag.

Ellis says books like The Omnivore’s Dilemma and Fast Food Nation and documentary SuperSize Me were all part of this same general movement toward greater transparency in food production, and within a few years, the growing public consciousness surrounding food issues suddenly picked up enormous traction. King Corn both reflected, and advanced, this burgeoning food consciousness.

Today, Ellis and Cheney work together on several advocacy programs and tour the country speaking at conferences and on college campuses. Each is also the point person for their newest slate of projects.

Ellis, for his part, is a founding member of FoodCorps, a national AmeriCorps public service initiative that will train a fresh generation of young people to work in school gardens, implement farm-to-cafeteria programs and lead nutrition education projects at sites across the country.

“We love working on something that can make such a tangible difference,” he says. “FoodCorps basically provides a troop surge in the response to the obesity epidemic.” (FoodCorps’ first host sites will be selected on Nov. 17.)

Cheney, meanwhile, is focusing on Truck Farm, a new documentary, slated to premiere this winter, that features the 1986 Dodge pick-up his grandfather gave him when he graduated from college. (It’s the same truck Cheney and Ellis drove to Iowa to shoot King Corn.) Cheney has since turned the truck into a green-roofed mobile garden with 20 varieties of fruits and vegetables, including serrano and poblano peppers, sugar snap peas, cherry tomatoes, okra, chard, kale, lettuce and a wide variety of herbs. Truck Farm (the vehicle) has traveled to 40 schools up and down the eastern seaboard, up the steps of the U.S. Botanic Garden and to the USDA in Washington, D.C. The pair uses the pickup to get people excited about how easy it is to grow food themselves.

The documentary, produced with the help of crowd-sourced funding from Kickstarter and a generous grant from the sustainable clothing company Nau, tells the story of how people around the country grow food in innovative places.

Ultimately, Ellis says, he and Cheney want to inspire America’s young people to pick up shovels and garden or farm–and to see that choice as a dignified one.  The most important message, though, he adds, is: “It’s OK for food advocacy to be fun.”

Meet our other Nourishing Heroes:

Cheryl Sternman Rule is a food and nutrition writer whose work has appeared in numerous national magazines, including EatingWell and Body+Soul. She is the voice behind the food blog 5 Second Rule.

CSA 101: What is Community-Supported Agriculture?

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We talk a lot about connecting with your food and cultivating local sources here on , but a lot of people still counter with “how?” Yes, there are farmers’ markets, and there are gardens for those who have the room. But what to do when the farmers’ market is out of season, or if you can’t make the trip that week? Enter the CSA, or community-supported agriculture.

CSA-community-supported-agriculture

With a  CSA, you’re helping support sustainable farming by paying a lump sum up front for produce they’ll grow for you in the coming month(s). It’s a win-win: the farmer benefits from a steady income stream and you get a steady supply of locally-grown, farm-fresh produce.

I’ve been psyched about the concept of CSAs for years, but as a professional recipe developer, I’d often be buying out-of-season produce to test (I can’t tell you how many Thanksgiving recipes I’ve tested in April) or need a specific ingredient list, so I held off on actually joining one. But I finally relented last year, and I’m so glad I did. Sure, it’s incredible produce and it feels good to support my local peeps, but there’s also a sort of underlying challenge of “how can I use this?” that’s just plain fun.

If you’re curious about joining one too, read on.

How much do I have to buy?

Each CSA works differently, but oftentimes you’ll pay by the month or quarter. Most CSAs also offer different size “boxes,” depending on how large of a household you need to feed.

What do you mean “box”?

Most CSA deliveries come in the form of a reusable cardboard box, milk or wooden crate.

What do I get in my box?

That depends on both the season and the CSA. Without fail, your box will be packed with peak-of-the-season produce, often picked just hours earlier; last fall our CSA boxes would come laden with kale, cabbage, chard, onions and radishes. But you may also find extra items like farm-produced eggs, honey or jams. Some CSAs are even partnering with local artisan producers to include their wares in the boxes.

What if I don’t want something that’s in there, or can’t use everything that week?

Being part of a CSA does take some getting used to. After all, it’s not like filling a grocery cart where you’re picking and choosing what you want; the choice is essentially being made for you based on what’s abundant in the field. But the taste—and the feeling of being part of your community and supporting a family farm—more than makes up for it.

One thing that helps me stay on top of what’s come in is my handy chalkboard. That way, I can piece together a meal by glancing at what’s fresh in the fridge. And don’t be daunted by unfamiliar items. I’ve found that the farmers themselves are often the best source for ideas—I’ve gotten great recipes for kohlrabi, nettles and more from mine. Just ask.

I’ve also become more resourceful with how I use ingredients. If poblanos show up, for instance, I might toss them in to roast with potatoes, whereas normally it would be spuds alone. If I have a surfeit of cucumbers in the box, I’ll make a jar of sweet-hot pickled cucumbers.

If I join a CSA, does that mean I can’t go to the farmers’ market or start a garden of my own?

Not at all. I find that I don’t buy the volume of produce I used to at the farmers’ market, but I still love to go for the connection, and to pick up things I’m craving that might not have shown up in my box.

Where do I find a CSA?

You might be surprised by how far flung CSAs are now these days. LocalHarvest.org is a great place to start; plug in your zip code and see what’s near you. Call around and get a feel for how each one works and sign up for the one that’s the best fit.