Coppa-Wrapped Dates with Blue Cheese

This appetizer recipe uses seasonal dates and is adapted from Jill Hough’s 100 Perfect Pairings: Small Plates to Enjoy with Wines You Love, a terrific book with simple, straightforward guidance (and super-tasty recipes) on enjoying wine and food … together. This little nibble, to me, is the winter equivalent to one of our favorite summer appetizers with figs and prosciutto and cooked on the grill. I’m grateful I don’t have to wait half a year! Jill suggests pairing this dish with a Cabernet Sauvignon or meaty Syrah.

coppa-wrapped-dates-blue-cheese12 Medjool dates, pitted and halved lengthwise
2 ounces blue cheese
12 thin slices coppa, cut in half lengthwise

Preheat oven to 450 degrees F. Line a baking sheet with foil.

Stuff each date half with a ball of blue cheese a little larger than a hazelnut. Wrap a slice of coppa around the date and set on the baking sheet. Bake until the coppa is slightly crisped and the cheese is bubbly, 5-7 minutes. Serve warm.

Serves 8

Why Brine?

Yes, brining—soaking turkey or other meat in a saltwater solution—can be somewhat cumbersome. You have to plan ahead (ideally, turkeys are brined overnight) and figure out how the heck to keep a submerged turkey cool. But, especially for the aspired show-stopper of The Big Meal, it’s well worth it.

The big benefit to brining is succulent, well-seasoned meat that’s much more forgiving in the oven, especially for lean, white meat that we all know can turn to shoe leather in the time it takes to empty the dishwasher.

How does brining work?

Brining works because nature loves balance. When turkey (or chicken, or meat) is submerged in saltwater brine, the water is drawn into the cells (whose liquid is more strongly concentrated) in order to even things out. The salt is carried along on a similar principle, which causes the protein in the cells to denature, or unravel. When they do, they become more readily available to interact with other cells and form a mesh-like barrier that keeps juices in while the meat is cooking. It’s like the gregarious person who comes into a quiet, cliquey party and gets everyone to mingle. So the water plumps the cells and the salt alters the makeup of the tissue to keep the meat moist (it also bumps up the umami).

How to brine

Dissolve 1 cup of Kosher salt (and up to ½ cup of sugar if you like) into 2-3 quarts of warm liquid along with any additional aromatics. Then cool to just below room temperature. Completely submerge your turkey or meat, refrigerate and brine overnight (or longer, for super-large birds). For smaller cuts, you can get away with a few hours; don’t brine them for longer than 10 hours, though, or the protein cells will break down too much and become mushy. I find a large stockpot works great for turkey breasts and chickens. For whole turkeys, I like to use a giant Ziploc bag in a cooler loaded with frozen gelpacks.

When Not to Brine

When I first “discovered” brining, I soaked everything … chicken, pork chops, turkey. But as I started sourcing my meat more carefully, I discovered that there were things that I didn’t necessarily need to or even want to brine.

My roast chicken, for instance. I now buy locally-raised, organic, air-dried chickens which are succulent and flavorful with a crisp skin without the extra step of brining. I’ve also had heritage turkeys where I wanted their unique flavor to shine through, rather than be overshadowed by a brine.

You’ll also need to be careful about using drippings from a brined turkey in a pan sauce. Add the drippings to the stock a little at a time to avoid making the sauce too salty.

Cider-Brined, Sage-Rubbed Turkey Breast with Mulled Cider Glaze

If you’re cooking for a couple (and want lots of leftovers) or a small crowd on Thanksgiving–or any time of the year, really–this turkey breast is a serious winner. The brine makes the meat flavorful and moist, the rub gives an extra hit of savory flavor, and the glaze brings the sweet notes of the brine up to the fore.

cider-brined-turkey-breast

Brine:
2 quarts water
1 cup kosher salt
½ cup brown sugar
1 cinnamon stick
1 teaspoon cloves
1 teaspoon allspice
4 cups cold apple cider
Half of a bone-in turkey breast (3 to 3-1/2 pounds)

Rub:
1 tablespoon butter, softened
1 tablespoon minced shallots
1 tablespoon minced sage
freshly ground black pepper

Glaze:
1 cup cider
1 teaspoon allspice
½ teaspoon cloves
2 star anise

To make the brine, heat water, salt, sugar and spices in a large stock pot over medium heat just until  salt and sugar dissolve. Pour in cold cider. Submerge turkey, cover and refrigerate at least 6 hours or overnight.

Preheat oven to 375 degrees F.

Combine all the rub ingredients. Place a piece of parchment paper in the bottom of a roasting pan. Remove turkey from brine (discard brine) and place in pan. Pat thoroughly dry with a paper towel.

Wedge your fingertips just under the skin to carefully separate skin from meat. Use your fingers to smear the rub under the skin, then massage it (I find it easier to press on the skin to move the rub underneath, so the butter doesn’t stick to my fingers) to evenly coat the meat. Roast turkey 30 minutes.

While turkey is roasting, prepare the glaze. Bring  cider and spices to a boil in a small saucepan. Boil for 5-7 minutes or until the consistency of a light syrup.

When turkey has cooked 30 minutes, brush all over with glaze. Roast another 15-20 minutes (an instant-read thermometer should read 165F), glazing every 5 minutes.

Remove from oven and let rest for 15 minutes before carving.

Serves 8-12

* Carving Note: It’s easiest to cut the breast into nice, neat slices after you’ve sliced it off the bone. Turn the breast upside down to study the bone. Then carefully cut along it to release the meat. Turn the breast right side up again and cut against the grain into thick slices.

Win a Free Copy of “Sara Moulton’s Everyday Family Dinners”!

One of the best things you can do to nourish those you love is gather them around the dinner table, and to do that, it helps to have a plenty of tempting recipes in your back pocket. A copy of Sara Moulton’s Everyday Family Dinners (Simon & Schuster) can help.

Win a free copy of Sara Moulton’s Everyday Family Dinners!

Moulton may be the former executive chef of Gourmet magazine and currently the host of Sara’s Weeknight Meals on PBS, but she’s also a busy mom with a husband and two kids to feed every night. That’s why all 200 recipes in Everyday Family Dinners had to pass muster with her own family. There’s plenty in these pages for the health- and eco-conscious cook, including whole grains (Wheat Berries with Creamy Cauliflower Sauce, anyone?), an emphasis on sustainable seafood and lots of meatless fare. Busy cooks will especially appreciate her chapter of five-ingredient entrees, which include the impressive but dead-easy Sauteed Duck Breasts with Apricot-Szechuan Peppercorn Sauce..

But, kids, you have to play to win.

So here’s the deal. Only NOURISH Evolution members are eligible to win, so now’s the time to join if you haven’t already! Then, head on over to the Thursday Giveaway group in our community area and leave a comment to be entered to win (important: be sure you’re signed in to NOURISH Evolution so we can find you).

Lia will announce the winner in next week’s Friday Digest!

Good luck!

Our Nourishing Thanksgiving Menu!

For many, the Thanksgiving feast is the biggest meal of the year, both in the scope of the menu and size of the guest list. Our nourishing, high-flavor Thanksgiving menu serves 12, and you can do much of the work ahead of time.

thanksgiving-menuNibbles:

Even though guests know they’re in for a hearty meal, you’ll still want to greet them with a little something. Set out a bowl of Lia’s Spanish Leaning Spinach and Chickpea Dip with crackers, carrot sticks and celery spears. Make a 1.5x batch to serve this crowd.

Appetizer:

Ginny’s Wild Rice Salad with Pistachios and Golden Raisin Vinaigrette adds a lovely, fresh note to the spread (you’ll need to make a 1.5x batch of this, too). Even better, it’s designed to be made in advance to save you time on the big day. Be sure to check out her tips for planning a stress-free feast.

Main event:

Lia’s six-ingredient Miso and Herbed-Rubbed Applewood-Smoked Turkey boasts huge flavor. Even better, it’s smoked on the grill, which frees up oven space on Thanksgiving.

On the side:

If you’re like me, you love the Thanksgiving sides best of all! Our “Sans Pan” Cider Gravy is designed to go with our grilled bird, and you can make it in advance. Round out the buffet with our interpretations of all the traditional trimmings: Green Beans with Frizzled Shallots (prep a triple batch for this menu), Susie’s Breadcrumb Stuffing (1.5x batch), Sweet Potato Puree with Honey and Crispy Shallots and Grandma Friese’s Whole Cranberries.

Sweet finale:

Pumpkin Tart with Maple Whipped Cream and Toasted Walnuts or Apple Pie with Chinese Five Spice and Hazelnut Crumb Topping? I say, make both and keep everyone happy.

To sip:

Pairing wine with a widespread menu like this can be tricky. Lia’s advice: Let the flavors of the bird be your guide. In this case, the turkey’s miso and smoky notes lead her straight to Gewurztraminer.

All of us at wish all of you and yours a happy, healthy and nourishing Thanksgiving!

Pumpkin Tart with Maple Whipped Cream and Toasted Walnuts

This is the Nourish version of a classic pumpkin pie. A Graham cracker crust is an easy option if you don’t feel like making pastry. If you don’t have pumpkin pie spice on hand, use 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon, 1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg, 1/8 teaspoon ground cloves, and 1/8 teaspoon ground ginger. Bake the tart up to 2 days ahead, cool completely, and refrigerate. Toast the walnuts a day or two ahead and store them in an airtight container.  You can whip the cream on Thanksgiving morning and pop it in fridge.

Crust:
1 cup Graham cracker crumbs
3 tablespoons sugar
1/4 cup butter, melted
Cooking spray

Filling:
1 (15-ounce) can unsweetened pumpkin puree
2 large eggs
3/4 cup sugar
2 tablespoons unbleached all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon pumpkin pie spice
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
1/4 teaspoon sea salt
3/4 cup half-and-half

Remaining ingredients:
1/4 cup whipping cream
1 tablespoon maple syrup
2 tablespoons finely chopped toasted walnuts

Preheat oven to 350 F.

To prepare the crust, place crumbs, 3 tablespoons sugar and butter in a small bowl, tossing with a fork to combine. Use the bottom of a small glass to evenly press mixture into bottom and up sides of a 10-inch tart dish coated with cooking spray. Bake at 350 F for 10 minutes. Cool completely on a wire rack.

Increase oven temperature to 425 F.

To prepare the filling, place pumpkin puree and eggs in a large bowl; beat with a mixer until thoroughly combined. Beat in 3/4 cup sugar, flour, pumpkin pie spice, vanilla and salt. Beat in half-and-half. Pour filling into prepared crust. Bake at 425 F for 10 minutes.

Reduce oven temperature to 350 F (do not remove tart from oven). Bake 45 minutes or until filling is set. (Shield edges of tart with foil, if necessary, if they start to look too brown.) Cool completely on wire rack.

Place cream in a small bowl. Beat with a mixer until stiff peaks form. Beat in maple syrup. Cut tart into 8 wedges. Garnish each serving with 1 tablespoon whipped cream and about 1 teaspoon walnuts.

Serves 8

4 Pro Steps to a Stress-Free Thanksgiving

With a little planning, the proper tools and some strategic cookery, it’s possible to not just survive this Thanksgiving, but to rock it. But cooking for a crowd is daunting if you don’t do it all the time. Here’s what I’ve learned from my pro cooking gigs, including single-handedly preparing a weekly six-course buffet dinner for 40. These four tips will help you enjoy a successful, low-stress Thanksgiving.

Find your bird

Choosing your turkey begins with the guest list. Depending on the amount of leftovers you desire, allot anywhere from 1 to 1.5 pounds of turkey weight per guest. Next, determine your turkey type. From fresh to frozen to organic to kosher to heritage birds, the choices are many. Some require ordering in advance, so don’t delay.

To brine or not to brine

Somewhere in the turkey equation you’ll need to decide how to prepare the bird. The basic method applies seasonings immediately before and during roasting. Another alternative is to smoke the turkey on the grill, which frees up oven space on the big day.

Brining involves soaking the bird in a seasoned saltwater liquid (usually for 12-24 hours, depending on the size of the bird) ensuring moist turkey with flavor throughout. Pre-salting is also gaining ground as an effective and space-efficient way to deeply season the bird, and involves sprinkling the turkey with salt three days in advance. For hassle-free flavor, kosher turkeys are an excellent option, as the koshering salt used during processing results in a flavorful bird right out of the bag.

Make Your Prep List

You’ll never feel lost in the details if you have a well-written game plan. Start with a brainstorming session that includes lists of:

  • Tasks for guests, from pie-baking to playlist making
  • Tasks for yourself, like counting forks and washing table linens
  • Recipes you’d like to serve (remember to account for special diets)
  • Assigned cooking and serving vessels for each menu item
  • A shopping list including everything you need, from green beans to stemware

Next, map out a prep list by working backwards from meal time. For example, if you want to serve a fresh, brined turkey at 5 p.m. on Thursday, you should be preparing it for the oven by noon, so it should be soaking in brine no later than noon on Wednesday. This means the turkey needs to be picked up, and the brine made on Tuesday, and so forth. Repeat this process for every task and recipe and before long, you’ll be feeling enthusiastic instead of overwhelmed.

Using a frozen bird? The safest, easiest way to thaw it is in the refrigerator, and you’ll need to allow 24 hours for every 4-5 pounds. That means you should move a 20-pound turkey from the freezer to the fridge four days before Thanksgiving, five if you plan to brine it.

Gather the Right Equipment

Among my must-have kitchen tools for the big day:

  • Instant-read thermometer: Affordable, reliable and easy to use, this little tool is the best way to guarantee a perfectly cooked bird, as well as thoroughly heated side dishes. Just insert the rod into the deepest and coolest part of the food, and the temperature gauge will tell you within about 60 seconds, exactly how hot it is.
  • Fat separator: The fastest way to skim the fat from pan drippings, this simple, low-spouted tool looks like a measuring cup with a strainer on top. Simply pour the drippings through the strainer and the fat will rise to the top so you can pour out the flavorful gravy while leaving the fat behind. It will drastically cut gravy prep time.
  • Carving board: If you don’t own a behemoth carving board with a moat, don’t worry. Make do with a cutting board placed within a larger, rimmed baking sheet to catch every drop of juice. Lay a damp dishtowel on the counter to hold the baking sheet in place while you carve the bird.

Writer, poet and chef Ginny Mahar currently resides in Missoula, Montana. When she’s not busy freelancing or posting on her blog, Food-G, you can find her in the mountains, earning her calories.

Wild Rice Salad with Pistachios & Golden Raisin Vinaigrette

This make-ahead salad combines indigenous North American wild rice with the colors of fall. Not only will it save you prep time on Thanksgiving Day, it will add a vegan element to your menu that everyone can enjoy. Prepare the vinaigrette while the rice is cooking. Combine the rice with half the vinaigrette up to a day ahead; prep and refrigerate the remaining ingredients separately and toss them with the rice and remaining vinaigrette up to an hour before serving.

[amd-zlrecipe-recipe:190]

10 Ways to Make Fresh, Healthy Food Fast

It’s all fine and dandy to talk about eating fresh, healthy food, but when it’s 5:30 and you’re faced with the dilemma of what to put on the table, good intentions can often be nudged out by convenience. Which is why it’s important to stack the deck in favor of fresh, healthy food. Here are 10 easy meal-planning suggestions to help make fresh as feasible an option as fast food.

make-fresh-healthy-food-fast

  1. Zip some greens – There’s no doubt, a bunch of greens busting out of the crisper can be daunting at the end of the day. But five minutes when you’re not rushed can mean having ready-to-use greens on hand. Zip the leaves off kale or chard (Noemi loves helping with this), roughly chop and give them a rinse in a big bowl of water. Then store them in a produce or plastic bag until you’re ready to use.
  2. Have stock on handChicken, mushroom or vegetable stock are incredibly versatile ingredients to have on hand (or in the freezer). Make an impromptu soup, or use a few tablespoons to make a quick pan sauce.
  3. Have a well-stocked pantry – A well-stocked pantry can mean the difference between a healthy meal and heading out for a McDonald’s Happy Meal. Canned tomatoes and beans, an assortment of oils and vinegars, and a variety of grains and pulses are the mix and match essentials of quick, nourishing meals.
  4. Keep a stash of homemade frozen go-to’s in the freezer – Think of the freezer as an extended pantry; between the two, you can often pull together a complete meal. I like to have a batch of Super Succulent Five-Spice Pork Shoulder and Revelationary Duck Confit in the freezer, along with a winter supply of No Work Slow Roasted Tomatoes from the summer. Shrimp and scallops are also great to keep stocked in the freezer for quick stir-fries or to add to soups. And, while it requires a bit of planning ahead for defrosting, we’ve been getting most of our meat from a local CSA and keeping it in the freezer, so we’ll have anything from ground beef to goat.
  5. Make a batch of beans or lentils – These can be in the fridge for the week or frozen for later. I love to have cooked garbanzo beans (which are easy to do, and taste better than the canned version) in the freezer, along with a batch or two of lentils, which are fantastic as an instant side dish or for adding heft to a salad.
  6. Cut up some cauliflower … or squash … or green beans – I eat so many more vegetables when I have a bag or container prepped in the fridge. It, literally, becomes fast food to sauté cauliflower for tossing with pasta, or roasting squash to serve with lentils, or smash onto a sandwich, or squash in a quesadilla.
  7. Make a simple planA few minutes of meal planning at the beginning of the week can actually save you major time throughout the week. I like to sketch out a rough schedule on Sunday for meals through Friday. True, I’ll veer from the plan quite a bit, but the exercise lets me see where there are opportunities to double up a recipe, where I can get creative with leftovers, and roughly what I’ll need for the week.
  8. Roast some veggies – Roasted vegetables, in any season, are a boon to have in the fridge. In winter, I’ll use leftover root veggies as a spread for open-faced sandwiches, or in a soup or risotto. In summer, I’ll toss roasted tomatoes and eggplant with pasta (hot or cold) or into a frittata, or just serve them at room temp as an appetizer.
  9. Cook up a batch of whole grains — There’s a whole world to explore when it comes to whole grains, but it helps to have some pre-cooked and on-hand in the fridge (or freezer … cooked grains freeze extremely well). Some, like quinoa and bulgur, cook up super-quick. Others, like wheat berries and farro, take a bit longer. Scoop a cup of almost any whole grain into a green salad to make it a main meal.
  10. Dice an onion — Once you learn how to dice an onion (see a Kitchen Tips video here), it doesn’t take but a few seconds. Dicing one or two ahead of time to keep on hand in the fridge makes things even easier … and might just tip the scales when it’s “should I cook or call for takeout?”

Don’t feel like you have to do all 10 of these at once — jeez, talk about daunting. Instead, look for little nuggets of time when you’re not rushed, and view them as opportunities to do one thing to help set yourself up for happy, healthy meals.

Spaghetti with Caramelized Cauliflower, Pepperoni and Capers

This dish is a great example of desperation being the greatest inspiration. I had some cauliflower cut up in the fridge (a great make ahead strategy) and some leftover pepperoni from pizza night and decided to throw them together in a simple pasta. It turned out to be delicious; the pepperoni and garlic flavor the oil for a no-effort-whatsoever sauce. Let the cauliflower get nice and brown before adding the garlic and pepperoni.

1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil, divided
4 cups cauliflower, cut into bite-sized pieces (1 medium head)
Sea salt
6 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
3 ounces pepperoni slices, cut into thin strips
3 tablespoons nonpareil capers, drained
1/8 teaspoon red pepper flakes
10 ounces whole grain spaghetti

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Cook spaghetti to al dente and drain.

While pasta is cooking, heat 3 tablespoons olive oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the cauliflower and toss to coat with the oil. Sprinkle lightly with salt. Cook for 5-8 minutes, flipping occasionally, until cauliflower is browned and just almost tender all the way through.

Add the remaining tablespoon olive oil, and the garlic and pepperoni. Toss to coat. Cook another 3-5 minutes, until garlic is toasted and cauliflower can be pierced with a fork. Add 1/4 cup chicken stock and scrape up any bits from the bottom of the pan. Add capers and pepper flakes and toss again.

Add drained spaghetti to pan and toss well to coat with sauce.

Serves 4