Tag Archives: thanksgiving

4 Pro Steps to a Stress-Free Thanksgiving

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With a little planning, the proper tools and some strategic cookery, it’s possible to not just survive this Thanksgiving, but to rock it. But cooking for a crowd is daunting if you don’t do it all the time. Here’s what I’ve learned from my pro cooking gigs, including single-handedly preparing a weekly six-course buffet dinner for 40. These four tips will help you enjoy a successful, low-stress Thanksgiving.

Find your bird

Choosing your turkey begins with the guest list. Depending on the amount of leftovers you desire, allot anywhere from 1 to 1.5 pounds of turkey weight per guest. Next, determine your turkey type. From fresh to frozen to organic to kosher to heritage birds, the choices are many. Some require ordering in advance, so don’t delay.

To brine or not to brine

Somewhere in the turkey equation you’ll need to decide how to prepare the bird. The basic method applies seasonings immediately before and during roasting. Another alternative is to smoke the turkey on the grill, which frees up oven space on the big day.

Brining involves soaking the bird in a seasoned saltwater liquid (usually for 12-24 hours, depending on the size of the bird) ensuring moist turkey with flavor throughout. Pre-salting is also gaining ground as an effective and space-efficient way to deeply season the bird, and involves sprinkling the turkey with salt three days in advance. For hassle-free flavor, kosher turkeys are an excellent option, as the koshering salt used during processing results in a flavorful bird right out of the bag.

Make Your Prep List

You’ll never feel lost in the details if you have a well-written game plan. Start with a brainstorming session that includes lists of:

  • Tasks for guests, from pie-baking to playlist making
  • Tasks for yourself, like counting forks and washing table linens
  • Recipes you’d like to serve (remember to account for special diets)
  • Assigned cooking and serving vessels for each menu item
  • A shopping list including everything you need, from green beans to stemware

Next, map out a prep list by working backwards from meal time. For example, if you want to serve a fresh, brined turkey at 5 p.m. on Thursday, you should be preparing it for the oven by noon, so it should be soaking in brine no later than noon on Wednesday. This means the turkey needs to be picked up, and the brine made on Tuesday, and so forth. Repeat this process for every task and recipe and before long, you’ll be feeling enthusiastic instead of overwhelmed.

Using a frozen bird? The safest, easiest way to thaw it is in the refrigerator, and you’ll need to allow 24 hours for every 4-5 pounds. That means you should move a 20-pound turkey from the freezer to the fridge four days before Thanksgiving, five if you plan to brine it.

Gather the Right Equipment

Among my must-have kitchen tools for the big day:

  • Instant-read thermometer: Affordable, reliable and easy to use, this little tool is the best way to guarantee a perfectly cooked bird, as well as thoroughly heated side dishes. Just insert the rod into the deepest and coolest part of the food, and the temperature gauge will tell you within about 60 seconds, exactly how hot it is.
  • Fat separator: The fastest way to skim the fat from pan drippings, this simple, low-spouted tool looks like a measuring cup with a strainer on top. Simply pour the drippings through the strainer and the fat will rise to the top so you can pour out the flavorful gravy while leaving the fat behind. It will drastically cut gravy prep time.
  • Carving board: If you don’t own a behemoth carving board with a moat, don’t worry. Make do with a cutting board placed within a larger, rimmed baking sheet to catch every drop of juice. Lay a damp dishtowel on the counter to hold the baking sheet in place while you carve the bird.

Writer, poet and chef Ginny Mahar currently resides in Missoula, Montana. When she’s not busy freelancing or posting on her blog, Food-G, you can find her in the mountains, earning her calories.

Wild Rice Salad with Pistachios & Golden Raisin Vinaigrette

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This make-ahead salad combines indigenous North American wild rice with the colors of fall. Not only will it save you prep time on Thanksgiving Day, it will add a vegan element to your menu that everyone can enjoy. Prepare the vinaigrette while the rice is cooking. Combine the rice with half the vinaigrette up to a day ahead; prep and refrigerate the remaining ingredients separately and toss them with the rice and remaining vinaigrette up to an hour before serving.

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On Thanksgiving, Thanks for the Culinary Memories

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When Thanksgiving rolls around, I react like many cooks and start digging around for those must-have recipes. In my case, I’m searching for my mom’s kick-ass stuffing recipe.

thanksgiving-culinary-memoriesWhile I imagine other cooks riffling through cute little vintage boxes filled with beloved family recipes neatly handwritten onto 3 x 5 index cards, my own journey is less clearly mapped out. Instead, I find myself pawing through cookbooks in search of random bits of paper like an archeologist hunting for ancient Egyptian papyri.

Our little trove of Thanksgiving family treasures is stuffed inside the pages of Volume 12 of the circa-1966 Woman’s Day Encyclopedia of Cookery (“T” for turkey, duh). That’s where I find a magazine article about turkey, my mom’s handwritten stuffing recipe, and other cobbled-together guideposts to making the annual feast our way. I always chuckle at the the version of the stuffing recipe that was clearly addressed to me. There’s a little note in the margin: “Pepperidge Farm Herb Crumbs,” underlined twice so I wouldn’t–God forbid–buy the bread cubes instead.

Beyond Volume 12, scribbled recipes, newspaper clippings and other “Mad Men”-era ephemera are stashed into the pockets of a red, generic Cooking Clips Recipe File. But these don’t represent a passion for cooking so much as a middle-class woman’s obligation to, dammit, get dinner on the table. Mom was a reluctant cook, more Betty Friedan than Betty Draper, and mid-‘60s domestic ambivalence wafts from the pages with the scent of old newspaper.

Her culinary repertoire was limited, but we liked it, and those pages yield warm memories of the simple dishes we loved: London broil, the Yorkshire pudding we had every Christmas Eve, a wine-marinated flank steak that I’m tempted to make this week. It’s straightforward fare that seems quaint and comforting in this time of precious foodie-ism. Though, in all fairness, flank steak marinated in Burgundy wine was upscale stuff back then.

Given that I write about food for a living, you’d think I’d make an effort to organize this stuff. My sister-in-law Julie did a few years ago, gathering favorite recipes from family and friends, along with the stories that go with them, into a tasteful little Tastebook. It’s a charming, gently irreverent heirloom that she’ll no doubt save for my niece. But I’m not tempted to follow her example.

No, instead I’ll continue to hunt down Mom’s recipes, then tuck them back into their respective books, right where they belong.

Susie’s Breadcrumb Stuffing Recipe

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This is an updated version the stuffing recipe my mom always made for Thanksgiving dinner, only instead of Pepperidge Farm Herb-Seasoned Stuffing mix, I use a blend of whole wheat panko, sea salt, black pepper and fresh sage and thyme. (It would work with regular whole wheat breadcrumbs, too.) This recipe serves 8-10 and doubles easily for a bigger crowd. You can make the stuffing a day or two ahead, spoon it into a baking dish, cover and refrigerate. On Thanksgiving, spoon some pan drippings from turkey over the stuffing and pop it in the oven while the turkey rests.

1 (9-ounce) package whole wheat panko breadcrumbs (such as Ian’s)
1 tablespoon minced fresh sage
1 tablespoon minced fresh thyme
1 teaspoon sea salt, plus additional to taste
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus additional to taste
1/2 teaspoon onion granules
1/2 teaspoon garlic granules
2 tablespoons butter
1 cup finely chopped onion (1 medium)
1/2 cup shredded carrot (about 1)
1/2 cup finely chopped celery (about 2 stalks)
1/3 cup finely chopped parsley
1 large egg, lightly beaten
1-1/4 cups chicken stock
1/2 cup toasted walnuts
1/4 to 1/2 cup pan drippings from turkey

Preheat oven to 425 degrees F.

Combine first 7 ingredients; set aside.

Melt butter in a large saucepan over medium-high heat. Add onion, carrot, celery and a pinch of salt and pepper; saute 3 minutes or until tender. Stir in parsley; cook another minute. Remove from heat, and stir in the egg and chicken stock. Stir in panko mixture and walnuts. Transfer mixture to an 8-inch baking dish. Spoon 1/4 to 1/2 cup pan drippings from the turkey over the stuffing. Bake at 425 F for 25 minutes.

Serves 8-10

Count Your Blessings

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Just about every culture spanning the globe partakes in some sort of thanksgiving benediction before consuming their food. The Japanese say, “itadakimasu,” which is a humble thanks for the food they are about to receive. Muslims quote from the Koran, saying, “Eat of your Lord’s provision, and give thanks to Him.” Before a banquet, the Chinese declare, “Duo xie, duo xie” or, a thousand thanks, a thousand thanks, and Jews and Christians alike open the meal with a blessing to God for the food before them. The world over, people count their blessings.

Regardless of the culture, all thanksgiving traditions have to do with one or more of three components: giving thanks for bounty of the meal, for the sustenance it gives our bodies, and for the communion it provides between those with whom we share it.

You don’t have to be religious to benefit from giving thanks before a meal. Saying grace can be as simple as a momentary pause to focus your attention, either silently or shared openly with others, to create a more mindful mindset. Thornton Wilder once said, “We can only be said to be alive in those moments when our hearts are conscious of our treasures.” And in that way, the act of pausing to give thanks for a meal is a blessing in and of itself.

This week, whether you borrow from convention or invent your own approach, say a blessing for the food you eat and observe how it subtly transforms your meal.

Feast Without Frenzy: Plan Ahead

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Mention the phrase “meal plan” and you’ll likely hear a litany of reasons for why there’s no time. Yet even 15 minutes to plan ahead can help you set a simple framework that will make your holiday feast less stressful. Here are three steps to crafting a plan for your holiday meals.

feast-without-frenzy-plan-aheadStep 1 — Brainstorm. I always like to start my meals planning with a fun brainstorming session. Pen and paper in hand (and often a glass of wine too), I jot down recipes that have caught my eye and ideas I’ve been wanting to try. Right now, my menus for Christmas week include “awesome potato something,” “duck confit” and “winter salad with persimmons, pomegranate and frisée.” And I’ll continue to add to the general list as my family’s arrival date draws near. Let yourself get creative during this stage; part of its purpose is to get you excited about cooking rather than dreading what’s ahead.

Step 2 — Fit the pieces together. Once you have a list of recipes you’d like to make, it’s time to assign what to when. Make a rough grid—either on a pad of paper or on your computer—with the days of the big gathering on the top and the meals of the day on the left. Fill in the big meals and work backwards, fitting in dishes like pieces of a puzzle. Think about the logistics not just of the big feast, but of each day surrounding it. On a busy day, go with an easy pasta or stir-fry for dinner. If you’ve got a game-night planned, put a pork shoulder in the oven for tomorrow’s lunch. Follow a heavier day with lighter soups and salads. The idea is to strike a balance–of filling and light, of fancy and casual, of complex and super-quick–so your meals complement the dynamics of the days rather than becoming stressful to-dos.

Step 3 — Make an initial list. Once you’ve brainstormed and fit your pieces together (and don’t be shy about crossing out and shifting around . . . this is a work in progress, after all), make a quick list of the major items you’ll need. You can work out specifics as the dates approach, but having a rough idea of what’s ahead can help prevent being stuck without eggs, or ripe pears or avocados, or a special cut of meat come mealtime.

This week, bring a bit of goodness and light to your gathering by taking some time to plan out your holiday meals.

Making Leftovers Lovable

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My friends used to think it strange when I’d invite them over for Thanksgiving . . . in April, when deadlines for food magazine November issues normally came due. But I have to admit to preferring the assignments for creative ways to use leftovers to the grand meal itself. Leftovers have an inherent challenge built into them. “Make me as inspiring as I was yesterday,” they seem to say.  Once you’ve done the reheat and the sandwich, though, then what? Here are three ways I’ve learned over the years to live up to leftovers’ dare:

thanksgiving-leftover-1Think beyond the turkey sandwich. Sure, the turkey-cranberry sandwich is good for a day or two, but try taking entirely new directions too. Toss shredded turkey with chopped artichokes and pasta, or mound it on a baguette with herbs and pickled carrots in a spin on a Vietnamese banh mi. Mashed potatoes and stuffing are delicious formed into “cakes” and fried in a bit of olive oil as a base for sauteed greens, and sweet potatoes can be folded into a farro risotto to add a silken sweetness to the dish.

Go global. It’s easy to get stuck in an all-American rut with leftover turkey, which is too bad. Turkey’s slightly gamey flavor goes well with a variety of cuisines. Try sauteing turkey meat in a chile spice mix for tacos; stirring it into spinach and feta as a stuffing for a Greek pie; or mixing it with white beans and sausage and topping with breadcrumbs for an easy cassoulet.

Make it fresh. If you’re a slave to reheated turkey and potato plates, try keeping your cool. Shredded turkey makes a great addition — or centerpiece — to salads of all kinds (often welcome after the big feast), and cranberries can add zing to salads both sweet and savory. The Asian Turkey Salad below, for instance, incorporates loads of fresh ingredients and bright flavors to give new life to leftover turkey.

The challenge, ultimately, is to make your leftovers as lovable as the original meal itself. If you come up with some new dishes of your own this year, comment below.

Asian Turkey Salad

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This fresh, bright turkey salad with Asian flair is quite a departure from the usual all-American Thanksgiving leftovers. But after the big day, it’s a nice, light respite. This salad would also be great any time of year with shredded chicken.

asian-turkey-salad-recipe
Dressing
1/4 cup rice vinegar
2 cloves garlic, smashed
1 (1-inch) piece peeled fresh ginger
1 serrano pepper
2 tablespoons peanut oil
1 tablespoon low-sodium soy sauce OR gluten-free tamari
2 teaspoons sugar
1 teaspoon salt
2 teaspoons fresh lime juice
2 teaspoons sesame oil

Salad
4 cups finely shredded Napa cabbage
2 cups skinned, boned and shredded turkey
1 cup thinly sliced red bell pepper
1 cup coarsely chopped cilantro, plus additional for garnish
1/2 cup thinly sliced red onion
2 tablespoons chopped peanuts
1/4 cup sliced scallion

To prepare dressing, combine vinegar, garlic, ginger, serrano pepper in a blender or food processor and pulse until garlic,  ginger and serrano are minced. Add oil and remaining dressing ingredients and blend until smooth.

To prepare salad, toss cabbage, turkey, bell pepper, 1 cup cilantro and red onion in a large bowl. Mix well with dressing. Divide evenly among 4 plates and garnish with peanuts, scallion and additional cilantro.

Serves 4

Keep Your Eyes on the Sides

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There’s much to crave on the Thanksgiving table–and a glorious bird like the Miso and Herb Rubbed Applewood Smoked Heritage Turkey would certainly be something to be thankful for.  A lot of work goes into cooking a stellar bird, but I have a confession: I only have eyes for the side dishes.

thanksgiving-side-dishes-montageYep, it’s true. I’d be happy to skip the turkey altogether, though propriety obliges me to sample at least a little, especially if I’m dining at someone else’s house. Instead, I’d load my plate with mashed potatoes, dressing, biscuits, green beans, gravy, and cranberry sauce. And supreme among side dishes is the sweet potato dish. It’s the Judi Dench of supporting players, so good it outshines the star and takes home an Oscar for, oh, five minutes of screen time.

Of course, sweet potatoes labor under an identity crisis. Mistakenly labeled “yams,” they are neither a yam nor a potato. In fact, sweet potatoes aren’t even botanically related to yams; the misnomer has lingered ever since soft varieties, which resemble the yams predominately found in Africa, were first introduced to the market decades ago. But they are sweet, which can confuse people in the kitchen. Sweet potatoes often are laden with butter and brown sugar, and topped with marshmallows in the classic casserole that many find too much like dessert. (Not me–I love the stuff–pass it all down my way, please.)

Despite their sweetness, these tubers play nicely with savory ingredients, as evidenced in this bread pudding recipe. The sweet potatoes themselves have impressive nutritional credentials–they’re low in calories yet high in fiber and vitamins A and C–and we boost the health factor even higher by using multigrain bread and sauteed kale. The indulgence comes from whole milk and egg yolks, which give the custard a luscious quality, and a touch of full-flavored Cheddar cheese. But baking the bread pudding in a muffin tin offers built-in portion control. A half-cup serving (one bread pudding “muffin”), which is plenty on the crowded holiday plate, comes in at just 134 calories and less than 2 grams of saturated fat per serving.

All of that makes me feel just fine about helping myself to seconds.

A longtime editor, writer, and recipe developer, Alison Ashton is a Cordon Bleu-trained chef. She has worked as a features editor for a national wire service and as senior food editor for a top food magazine. Her work has appeared in Cooking Light, Vegetarian Times, and Natural Health.