Let Your Food Make You Laugh

Can we all agree that “fusilli” is a fun word to say? I know that may seem off-topic, but it’s not. Really.

I wrote last week about about the real meaning of comfort food in that food is so much more than just what we eat, and you all confirmed the notion big time with your answers to the State of the Kitchen Survey. Over three-quarters of you said you defined “being nourished” as “eating in a way that makes me feel healthy and energized.”

That ain’t no diet, folks. That’s a way of being. It’s a feeling that permeates beyond our physical cells into our souls.

So how does all that apply to Fusilli with Artichokes and Swiss Chard? Because one of the best ways to bring that healthy and energized spirit into your eating is to bring light and laughter into your kitchen. This dish not only has all the Nourishing components for your body–whole grain pasta, lots of leafy greens and seasonal goodies, a touch of goat cheese to amp up the creaminess factor–it’ll have fun with you if you let it.

Here’s an experiment.

1. Get everything ready to make this dish and take note of how you’re feeling–if you’re preoccupied about something at work, feeling rushed because of an evening activity, what have you.

2. Now look at your kid–or at yourself in the mirror–while holding a piece of dried pasta and say the word “fusilli” 10 times fast. Just try not to smile or laugh. I dare you.

3. Now … check in and see if your mindset has lightened or changed, and how that shift affects the rest of your dinner.

Did you notice a shift? Share your experience in a comment below.

What is Your Comfort Food?

I posted something on Facebook yesterday that got me thinking as I struggled to find my own answer to the question.

The alarming regularity of unthinkable tragedies as of late have taught me something about myself. When tragedy hits I, like so many others, ache to do something to make things better and to offer comfort. But in this world where we’re all so interconnected and yet so far from arm’s reach, it’s just not possible to hug those who are grieving, or care for them in the coming days. So I tend to just cocoon.

This time–and I hate that there is a this time–I wanted to break that pattern and go outward, finding a way to bring comfort to others as they deal with what’s happened in their own way. Whenever anyone I love is hurting, I get an overwhelming urge to cook for them. It feels to me like I’m handing them a piece of my heart and saying “I hurt for you too, and I hope that makes this a little less lonely and painful to go through.”

So I decided to ask a question: What dish would you bring to a friend who was grieving?

What struck me after asking it was how difficult it was for me to choose. Cakes or cookies felt inappropriately celebratory. Some dishes felt too fussy, others too much like a cocktail party. This one, though, spoke to my heart–it’s full of warmth and good things from the garden, and the dollop of pesto is a reminder of the inevitability that brighter days do lie ahead.

This whole circuitous train of thought brought to life something I’ve said a gazillion times before and I’ll probably say a gazillion times again: food is about so much more than just what we eat.

I’d love to know … what would your answer be?

Comfort Food

The weather is shifting from the hot, come-hither days of summer to the chilly slant of autumn and it seems everyone is craving comfort food. And maybe it’s not just because we’re heading indoors to flee the cold. Perhaps the “nostalgiancholy” that hits this time of year, where everything seems steeped in memories and somehow raw with emotion, is making us crave something richer, something more soulful.

comfort-food-post

I was getting a haircut recently when conversation turned to comfort food (between Kathleen, Deirdre and me in that salon, conversation often turns to food). We started with what to cook in a big, old Le Creuset . . . which led us to braised pork shoulder and various types of stews . . . which led to Kathleen’s method of roasting chicken in her Dutch oven.

“Roast chicken saved my life once,” Deirdre chimed in. Her gaze was distant. She, someone who loves to cook, went on to tell of the early days after a rough divorce when just gathering groceries leveled her, sparse as they were for one. So for a time she turned to frozen meals and convenience foods while the sorrow swept through.

And then, she roasted a chicken.

“It warmed the house up and made it smell like somebody lived there again,” Deirdre said. “It made me feel like things were OK, like I was OK.” Amazing how food has the power to do that; to wrap itself around us like a giant, ephemeral hug.

For all our talk of mac ‘n’ cheese and braises and pizza and soup, in Deirdre’s words, I heard the true meaning of comfort food.

Hug on a Plate

I’m a sucker for research, especially about food and why we eat what we do. So you can imagine my delight at seeing a news story about University of Buffalo researchers who found that just thinking about a favorite comfort food helps quell feelings of loneliness by reminding us of our connection with others.
I couldn’t resist sharing this story with NOURISH Evolution’s Facebook community and asking members to share their go-to comfort foods. Turns out, people are passionate about their favorite comforting dishes. I started the discussion off by sharing my personal faves: chocolate and carbonara (though not in the same dish). Some admitted they also turn to chocolate and creamy food after a tough day. Homey fare like buttermilk fried chicken and chili made an appearance, too.

Then things took a surprising turn. Of course comfort food doesn’t have to = junk food, and indeed, there was a strong contingent who chimed in with favorites that nourish body and soul. One had a fondness for veggie-laden chicken soup. Lia favors udon soup when she’s down (she also likes any kind of pizza). She and another commenter also enjoy sauteed Swiss chard.

Can such healthy fare be comforting when you’re lonely? That depends on your outlook. One commenter believed true comfort food is by definition sweet and/or fattening. I, too, like an element of richness in my comfort cuisine. For me, this Indian dal offers the best of both worlds of health and comfort. The lentils have a creamy texture while the onion and carrot sauteed in ghee lend a rich element, and it’s all flavored with earthy, warm spices. That’s my idea of a big culinary hug.

Red Lentil Dal with Caramelized Onions

Dal is an Indian cuisine comfort-food standby made with lentils, dried beans or peas. Tarka is a technique in which spices are sauteed in fat to magnify their flavor. And as we learned from spice guru Monica Bhide, you’ll enjoy  even more vivid flavor if you grind whole spices. Depending on your choice of cooking fat and stock, you can make this a vegan, dairy-free or gluten-free. Prepare the tarka and raita while the lentils simmer. Serve this dal with brown basmati rice, roasted cauliflower and our Fennel and Mint Raita.

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Slow Cooker Carrot Soup with Warm Spices and Blood Orange

By Cheryl Sternman Rule

In wintertime especially, there’s nothing more comforting than coming home to a pot of simmering soup. This carrot version has a secret ingredient–a cup of diced, kabocha squash–which plays beautifully with the spices and citrus drizzle.

carrot-soup-recipe1-1/2 pounds carrots, peeled and diced (or, if they’re organic and thin-skinned, just give them a scrub)
1 cup diced, peeled kabocha squash (from a 1/2 pound wedge)
1 medium onion, diced
1 tablespoon minced fresh gingerroot
1 tablespoon cumin
1/2 teaspoon ground coriander
1/4 teaspoon ground allspice
Generous pinch ground cloves
3-1/2 cups chicken stock, vegetable stock, or low-sodium canned broth
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
3 tablespoons sour cream, plus 2 teaspoons for serving
Juice from 1/2 blood orange (about 1-1/2 tablespoons)

Place the carrots, squash, onion, ginger, spices, and stock in the crock of a slow cooker in the order given. Season with salt and pepper. Place on the lid, set to low, and allow to simmer for about 8 hours, or until vegetables are very tender.

Unplug the slow cooker. Puree the vegetables using an immersion blender.

Whisk in 3 tablespoons of the sour cream.

To serve, divide among 6 bowls, topping each bowl with a tiny dollop of additional sour cream and a few drops of blood orange juice.

Serves 6

Pressure Cooker Black Bean Soup

Recipe and photo by Alison Ashton

Using a pressure cooker speeds up cooking whole foods like dried beans. You can even use it to “quick soak” the beans. Use this recipe as a template and change up the beans and herbs to create new flavor profiles. For example, use dried white beans, pancetta, sage, and parsley (skip the chile pepper and cumin) to take it an Italian direction.

Pressure Cooker Black Bean Soup1 (16-ounce) bag dried black beans
1 (4-ounce) link Mexican chorizo
1 cup finely chopped onion
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 (32-ounce) container fat-free, low-sodium chicken broth
1/2 teaspoon dried oregano
1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
1 serrano chile pepper
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons chopped cilantro
Sour cream, for garnish (optional)
Cilantro sprigs, for garnish (optional)

Sort through the beans, discarding any split ones. Place beans in a 6-quart pressure cooker and add water to cover by 2 inches. Lock lid in place and bring to high pressure over high heat. Reduce heat and cook 2 minutes. Release pressure using automatic pressure release OR carefully transfer cooker to sink and run cool water over rim until pressure drops. Remove lid, tilting lid away from you, to allow steam to escape. Drain beans.

Return cooker to stove over medium heat. Remove chorizo from casing and add chorizo to cooker. Cook 5 minutes or until chorizo renders its fat, using a spoon to crumble the meat. Add onion and cook 3 minutes. Add garlic and cook 30 seconds or until fragrant. Add drained beans, broth, oregano, and cumin. Use a sharp knife to cut several slits in the Serrano and add serrano to pan.

Lock lid in place, and bring to high pressure over high heat. Reduce heat, and cook 25 minutes or until beans are tender.  Release pressure using automatic pressure release OR carefully transfer cooker to sink and run cool water over rim until pressure drops. Remove lid, tilting lid away from you, to allow steam to escape. Discard serrano. Stir in salt, and black pepper.

Use an immersion blender to puree soup to desired texture (or transfer soup in batches to a food processor or blender). Stir in 2 tablespoons cilantro. Serve garnished with sour cream and cilantro sprigs, if desired.

Serves 6

The Basics of Braising

As the days grow grayer the light inside glows a tad warmer and anything cooked over a slow, mellow heat seems to suffuse our very souls with comfort. These, my friends, are braising days.

How to Braise

Braising is a cooking method that breaks down tough, fibrous meat through the convective action of steam. After an initial browning on the stove top, meat is sealed in a pan with a small amount of liquid and cooked at a low, steady heat—often for several hours. The reward is meltingly tender meat and a savory, complex sauce with surprisingly little hands-on cooking time.

Ironically, tougher cuts of meat yield the most tender and flavorful braises. Shanks, ribs, legs, shoulder, and chuck or round roasts have ample connective tissue which breaks down and tenderizes meat during a long cooking time, while lean cuts like chicken breast or beef tenderloin simply dry out.

When braising, choose a heavy-duty shallow pot or deep, straight sided pan with a secure lid, like a Dutch oven, a doufeu or even a deep-sided oven-proof saute pan. It should be wide enough to accommodate the meat snugly in a single layer and deep enough so the lid fits tightly. You may need to brown in two batches in order to allow air to circulate freely around the food, but during the slow simmer, meat should be nestled as closely together as possible.

There are four basic steps to braising: browning the meat, deglazing the pan, slow cooking and finishing.

1. Brown the meat on the stove top. Heat the Dutch oven over medium-high heat and swirl in a minimum of fat. Then thoroughly brown the meat on all sides. Allow at least 1/2-inch space between the pieces so that air can circulate or the meat will steam rather than sear (brown in batches if necessary). Don’t rush this process; the more developed the crust, the deeper and more concentrated the flavor of the braise will be. Transfer to a plate when done.

2. Add aromatics like garlic, shallots and hardy herbs to the pan and cook until fragrant and golden. Deglaze the pan with wine, scraping up any bits stuck to the bottom. Then add the braising liquid and bring to a vigorous simmer.

3. Add the meat back to the pan, nestling it into a single layer, then cover tightly and move to the oven. Cook at a low to medium heat until meat is fork tender.

4. Remove meat from the pan and cover loosely with foil. Reduce the sauce on the stovetop over medium-high. Lower heat, add meat back to the pan and simmer to heat through.

There are dozens of variations on the basics, leaving the technique open to interpretation and imagination (like the Five Spice Braised and Glazed Beef Short Ribs below). The ultimate hallmark of a braise is the comfort it brings, both while in the oven and at the table.

Braised and Glazed Five Spice Short Ribs

Braising renders these Asian-inspired short ribs meltingly tender with relatively little hands-on cooking time (and the glaze makes the flavors even more intense).  The ribs freeze beautifully, so cook up this extra large batch and stash half away for a later date.

five-spice-ribs-recipe

2 teaspoons Canola oil
3 tablespoons five spice powder, divided
1/4 cup whole wheat white flour
1/2 teaspoon sea salt
6 pounds bone-in beef short ribs (roughly 12 ribs)
1 cup chopped onion
1 cup chopped carrot
3 cloves garlic, chopped
2 tablespoons chopped ginger
1/2 cup low-sodium soy sauce, divided
1/2 cup rice wine vinegar, divided
1 cup beef broth
1/4 cup honey

Preheat oven to 300. On the stovetop, heat Canola oil in a large Dutch oven over medium-high heat.

In a wide bowl, mix together 2 tablespoons five spice powder, flour and salt. Dredge each rib in the flour mixture, tapping off excess, and brown on all sides in the Dutch oven, 10-12 minutes total (in batches if need be to allow enough space between the ribs for air to circulate). Remove to a plate as done.

Add onion, carrot, garlic and ginger to Dutch oven and brown for 8-10 minutes. Deglaze pan with 1/4 cup soy sauce, 1/4 cup rice wine vinegar and beef broth. Bring back to a boil, nestle ribs in the pot, cover and transfer to the oven. Braise for 3 hours and remove from oven.

While ribs are cooking, mix together honey and remaining 1/4 cup soy sauce, 1/4 cup rice wine vinegar and 1 tablespoon five spice powder in a small saucepan and bring to a boil. Lower heat to medium and reduce glaze until a syrupy consistency, about 10 minutes.

When ribs are done, transfer them to a cookie sheet and turn the oven to broil. Brush ribs with half the glaze and broil for 3 minutes, until bubbly. Turn over, brush with remaining glaze and broil another 3 minutes.

Serves 10-12