Get a New Grain: Amaranth

The more I’ve learned about amaranth, the more I’ve come to think of it as quinoa’s little cousin. The two certainly have a lot in common. Like quinoa, amaranth has a long New World history. It was revered among the native peoples of Mexico and Central America, and it was so crucial to the Aztecs’ diet, culture and even religion that the Spanish conquistadors outlawed its cultivation.
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Also, like quinoa, amaranth is considered a “pseudo-grain” because it isn’t a true cereal grain, though it shares many of the same nutritional and culinary qualities. Amaranth “grains” are actually the seeds of the plant, which also yields very tasty, tender green leaves that you might have seen labeled as “Chinese spinach” at farmers’ markets or Asian groceries.

And, along with quinoa, amaranth is a nutritional dynamo. A quarter-cup uncooked amaranth (about 3/4 cup cooked) has 179 calories, 3 grams of fiber and a whopping 7 grams of protein. Even better, amaranth is one of the few plant sources of complete protein (like quinoa, surprise, surprise). If you’re a vegan or simply trying to enjoy more meatless meals, amaranth should have a place on your plate. Oh, yeah, and it’s gluten free, too.

So what’s the difference? For all its similarities to quinoa, amaranth has some unique characteristics:

What It Looks Like: Amaranth’s teeny-tiny pale-golden beads look like a much dinkier version of quinoa. (Tip: The tiny grains tend to scatter everywhere, so if you buy amaranth from the bulk bins, use a funnel to decant it into another container. I learned this the hard way.)

What It Tastes Like: Texture is the first thing you notice about amaranth. Whereas quinoa cooks up with fluffy individual grains, amaranth releases lots of starch during cooking. That lends it a gelatinous consistency with each grain creating a subtle, caviar-like “pop” when you chew it. Amaranth has a mildly nutty quality and readily absorbs the flavors of other ingredients.

How to Cook It: Use 1 part amaranth to 3 parts liquid, which can be anything from plain water to stock to milk. Bring the amaranth and liquid to a boil, then cover, reduce the heat and let it simmer for 25 minutes or until tender. Stir it occasionally. To enhance amaranth’s nutty flavor, saute the grains in a little bit of fat before adding your liquid. One cup of uncooked amaranth yields about 3 cups cooked.

How to Use It: Choose dishes that make the most of amaranth’s rich, pudding-like texture. Indeed, we’ve found it makes an excellent dessert in our Chai-Spiced Amaranth Pudding or Chocolate Amaranth Pudding (yes, we love pudding around here!). I’d also try it for breakfast in place of millet in our Creamy Millet with Blueberry Compote. Or use it instead of corn in grits or polenta.

Additional Notes: You’ll also find amaranth flour, which you can use to in baked goods or to make atole, the warm, thick traditional Mexican drink. Look for puffed amaranth at health-food stores (or pop it yourself at home), which you can use as a cold breakfast cereal or to make like alegria–a lovely Mexican snack that has been described as Mexico’s answer to the Rice Krispie treat.

3/3/11 Nourishing News Roundup

Our weekly roundup of  links to tasty headlines we think you’ll want to read…

A Tasty Case for Kale

Need more inspiration to incorporate greens in your diet? Lia shows you how on Good Cookin’ with Bruce Aidells on the LiveWell Network. Watch this, and I’ll bet you’ll want to make her Braised Kale and Feta Tartines for supper tonight!

Be Good to Yourself

What’s one of the best steps you can take to for your health? Be kind to yourself, according to this New York Times Well blog post. Researchers say people who are “self-compassionate” tend to eat better than those who are hard on themselves.

School Farm Stand

We love this idea by the Parent Teacher Student Association at Golden Avenue Elementary School in Lemon Grove, Calif.: A weekly mini farmers’ market selling produce grown by local farmers. As Chris Huard reports on the Lemon Grove Patch, the program was launched in December to foster healthy eating habits in the community. It’s just one of two school-based farmers’ markets in the state.

To learn about another unique school program, check out Cheryl’s story about a Northern California mom who organized a garden at her kids’ school to supply a local food bank with fresh produce.

Revamp Your Relationship with Food!

We’re very excited about the relaunch of My Nourish Mentor, Lia’s 12-week, online coaching program for those who want hands-on strategies to foster a healthy relationship with food. Check out this video to learn more about how this life-changing program works.

Crepe Maker

Neither my schedule nor budget has room for a trip to France anytime soon. So if I want to enjoy my favorite Parisian street food–Nutella crepes–I’ll have to join the (very) long line at the crepe stand at the Sunday farmers’ market or make them myself.

Happily, it’s incredibly easy to make crepes crepes at home. If I can do it, you can, too.

I wanted to experiment with using whole wheat pastry flour instead of all-purpose flour in the batter. As I’ve noted before, whole wheat pastry flour is a fantastic find. It has all the fiber and nutrients of regular whole wheat flour, but because it’s made from soft white wheat, it has less protein (and therefore less gluten development) than regular whole wheat flour. Its soft texture makes it ideal for delicate baked goods or uses where you don’t want a lot of gluten development–like crepes.

Here are 6 steps to making crepes at home:

Mix your batter. Crepe batter is much the same as standard pancake batter except it doesn’t have a leavener like baking powder. So, instead of fluffy flapjacks, you’ll get a thin, flat pancake. Also, classic crepes aren’t typically sweetened, but you can add a tablespoon or two of sugar to the batter if you prefer them sweet.

Let it rest. Cover the batter and let it stand at room temperature at least 30 minutes and up to 2 hours. This allows the flour to absorb all the moisture, which ensures the crepes cook evenly with tender results.

Choose a pan. Sure, you could use a dedicated shallow crepe pan, which might be a nice investment if you make crepes often. Otherwise, a nonstick skillet does the job beautifully. The number of crepes this recipe yields depends on the size of your pan. I used a 10-inch nonstick pan and got a dozen 7-inch crepes.

Heat the pan over medium heat. Don’t use a higher temperature, or the batter will start to set before you have a chance to swirl it around in the pan.

Brush the bottom of the pan with a thin layer of canola oil. Then use a small ladle to pour in just enough batter to coat the bottom of the pan–2 to 4 tablespoons should be plenty. Again, how much depends on the size of your pan.

Swirl, cook, flip. As soon as the batter is poured in, swirl the pan to distribute the batter evenly over the bottom. Cook for about 2 minutes or until the edges of the crepe are light brown and the bottom is golden (use a thin rubber spatula to gently lift the crepe and peek at the bottom. Flip the crepe with the spatula and cook the other side for another minute or until golden. Turn the cooked crepe out of the pan onto a wire rack. Practice makes perfect with this process, and you’ll find the results become more evenly round as you progress from the first crepe to the last.

Crepes are a perfect make-ahead component, since they refrigerate and freeze beautifully. You can thaw them at room temperature, then reheat them in a low oven or warm pan. Fillings are limited only by your imagination, since crepes can envelope both savory and sweet fillings deliciously. But you may want to gobble your first batch hot out of the pan with just a dusting of sifted powdered sugar.

Whole Wheat Crepes

Traditional French crepes get a healthy upgrade, thanks to whole wheat pastry flour. You don’t need a dedicated crepe pan for this recipe; any nonstick skillet will do. The number of crepes you get depends on the size of the skillet. I used a 10-inch skillet and ended up with 12 (7-inch) crepes. You can double this crepe recipe and freeze the leftovers. Thaw them at room temperature and warm them up in a low oven or in a nonstick skillet over low heat. Serve with savory (try our Cabbage Saute with Shiitakes and Crispy Tofu or Spicy Sweet Shrimp) or sweet fillings (like fresh fruit and a dollop of our Kitchen MacGyver Lemon Curd). Of course, it’s a classic with bananas and Nutella. Don’t worry if the first crepe isn’t perfect–French cooks call that the “sacrifice.”

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Nourishing Oscar Dishes

OK, we decided to play along with Oscar fever. Here’s how we match nourishing dishes to this year’s Best Picture nominees. Who are you rooting for?

1. “127 Hours”: Noemi’s Remixed Party Mix. A perfect snack for when you’re between a rock and a hard place.

2. “The Black Swan”: Crispy Oatmeal Chocolate Chip Cookies. Because psycho ballerinas like to binge.

3. “Winter’s Bone”: Skillet Corn Bread with Tomatoes and Sage. Down-home comfort food for down-home drama.

4. “Toy Story 3”: Crispy Buttermilk Oven-Fried Chicken. A kid-friendly classic you’ll never outgrow…

5. “The Fighter”: Barramundi with Shallots and Chile. A ready-in-a-hurry post-workout meal when you’re training for the fight of your life!

6. “Inception”: Carnitas de Lia. ‘Cause this dish is so dreamy…

7. “The Kids Are All Right”: Braised Kale and Feta Tartines. Local, organic food plays a big role in this flick & we think the characters would dig this super-flavorful open-faced s’wich.

8. “True Grit”: Spice-Rubbed Skirt Steak. Rooster Cogburn would approve of this grub! (I’m rooting for this one to win Best Picture. What’s your fave?)

9. “The King’s Speech”: Meyer Lemon Ricotta Scones, with Kitchen MacGyver Lemon Curd. Our spin on two veddy British classics.

10. The Social Network”: No-Bake Peanut Butter Popcorn Treats. The perfect munchies for an all-night coding session.

And the Oscar goes to….

2/24/11 Nourishing News Roundup

Our weekly roundup of  links to tasty headlines we think you’ll want to read…

Sustainable Seafood Victory

Casson Trenor of Greenpeace just announced some big news: Costco has finally agreed to remove a dozen red-list fish from its stores and implement more a responsible seafood policy.

In other seafood news, Chef Barton Seaver tells SustainableSeafood.com how he defines sustainability, including the importance of encouraging diners to eat lower on the marine food chain. (Our Curried Mussels are a delicious way to do just that!) Also check out National Geographic’s site The Ocean, which teaches consumers about the impact of seafood choices on the marine food chain.

Do Junk Food Taxes Work?

Municipalities all over the country have started to tax junk food in an effort to encourage healthier choices. Does that work? It might. Reuters Health reports on a new study in which college students were offered hypothetical lunch choices on a computer model. Each time, prices for burgers, chips and other goodies went up. Half the students were also shown caloric info for food. The results? As prices for junk rose, calorie counts for meals went down. Caloric info had less influence on the students’ food choices.

Joe Salatin on Small Farms

If you’ve read Michael Pollan’s books or seen “Food, Inc.” you know Joe Salatin of Polyface Farm. Hobby Farm magazine has a Q&A with the delightful advocate of sustainable agriculture. In it, he discusses how environmental efficiency is crucial to making a “farmette” economically viable. If you want to learn more about small-farm meat and poultry, check out Lia’s story about meat CSAs.

What if Michael Pollan is Wrong?

Zester Daily‘s opinion piece by Louise O. Fresco about Michael Pollan’s “misguided” message stirred up some, uh, controversy. Check it out, and add your 2 cents.

GE and Organic: Is Coexistence Possible?

The first two months of 2011 have been busy for the USDA when it comes to approving genetically engineered (GE, also called genetically modified organisms or GMO) crops. At the end of January, the agency deregulated GE Roundup Ready alfalfa, followed a week later by the partial deregulation of GE sugar beets and deregulation of GE ethanol corn a week after that. Approval of GE alfalfa, in particular, created a firestorm of controversy in the organic community.

ge-gmo-organic-coexistIn December, when the USDA was considering deregulating GE alfalfa, the agency organized a “coexistence forum” for the various stakeholders to discuss measures to safeguard organic and non-GE conventional alfalfa while at the same time allowing farmers to grow the GE stuff. Attendees included representatives from the USDA, members of NGOs (among them, the Union of Concerned Scientists, the Center for Food Safety and the Cornucopia Institute), industry groups (such as the Biotech Industry Organization and the Organic Trade Association) and industry members (Monsanto, alongside Stonyfield Farm, Whole Foods and others).

At the time, Agriculture Secretary Tom Vilsack made it clear that biotech crops are here to stay. “We see biotechnology as a key component of U.S. ag production, and a powerful means to increase agricultural productivity, as well as sustainability and resilience to climate,” he told attendees. “At the same time, there must be a recognition that the organic sector is one of the fastest-growing segments of U.S. agriculture.”

Participation of some of the organic industry’s biggest players led Ronnie Cummins, national director of the Organic Consumers Association, to label them “Monsanto’s Minions.” Stonyfield’s CEO Gary Hirshberg countered that since the USDA was going to deregulate GE alfalfa anyway, it was crucial for organic interests to be represented as the USDA considers coexistence. That didn’t stop Hirshberg and others who were at the USDA meeting from later signing the “We Stand United in Opposition of GE Alfalfa” petition, which calls the USDA “a rogue agency in its regulation of biotech crops.”

When the USDA approved GE alfalfa, it released its plans to foster “constructive coexistence.” Measures include steps to preserve the purity of non-GE alfalfa seed, developing stewardship practices to prevent contamination and “assisting cooperation” among GE and non-GE alfalfa producers. There’s no timeline attached to these measures, and it’s unclear what kind of role the USDA might play in monitoring and enforcing any policies beyond research, advice and voluntary audits–or how those policies might apply to other crops. In the meantime millions of acres are being planted with GE crops. For example, the USDA is allowing GE sugar beets to be planted even though the final Environmental Impact Statement isn’t due until next year.

One question that stands out is whether such coexistence is practical.

“That depends on what you mean by ‘coexistence,’” says Fred Kirschenmann, distinguished fellow at the Leopold Center for Sustainable Agriculture at Iowa State University and a member of the board of directors for the Organic Seed Alliance. He also participated in the USDA’s December meeting on GE alfalfa. “If one means that both varieties (GMO and organic) can exist on the same planet without any cross-contamination, then the answer is clearly is ‘no.’ One cannot isolate a living organism in nature.

“Proposing coexistence based on no contamination isn’t feasible, since that genie is already out of the bottle.”

Kirschenmann says that leaves “coexistence” based on planting crops far enough apart to minimize contamination, compensating organic farmers whose crops are contaminated by GMOs and, of course, the cooperation of all the concerned parties. But just the idea of planting GE crops far enough apart is daunting.

“There would need to be strict distance between crops,” says Kirschenmann. “Such distances would need to be established for each crop–insect- and wind-pollinated crops would need much greater distances.” (That would certainly be the case for alfalfa, which is pollinated by bees, as well as corn–another common GE crop–which is wind-pollinated.) Farm equipment, as well as processing, manufacturing and seed facilities, would also need to be strictly segregated, he adds.

The recent deregulation of GE ethanol corn raises additional concerns. That corn is approved for industrial use for biofuel, but it could easily contaminate food corn crops. “There is no way to protect food corn crops from contamination by ethanol corn,” says Margaret Mellon, director of the Union of Concerned Scientists’ Food and Environment Program. “Even with the most stringent precautions, the wind will blow and standards will slip. In this case, there are no required precautions.”

Albert Straus, president of Straus Family Creamery, knows firsthand how easily organic crops can be tainted. In a statement protesting the deregulation of GE alfalfa, he noted that “because bees routinely fly up to five miles from their hives to pollinate plants, it is impossible for farmers to prevent contamination of organic or conventional alfalfa crops from genetically modified pollen.” And because alfalfa is the key feed for organic dairy cows, that threatens the integrity of all organic dairy products.

Straus Family Creamery began voluntarily testing organic cattle feed for GMOs in 2006 after discovering it had purchased some organic feed that had been inadvertently contaminated.

GE crops come with serious environmental and potential health concerns. But ultimately, says Kirschenbaum, the issue boils down to property law. “Property rights work two ways: In this case, farmers have the right to use their property to grow GMO crops. On the other hand, organic and non-GMO farmers have the right to grow crops without being interfered with by GMO crops. Courts have waxed and waned on such issues, so it’s difficult to tell how the Supreme Court would rule.”

What You Can Do

Oppose GE crops? Here are some steps you can take:

  • Buy certified-organic food. According to the USDA’s standards, certified organic food cannot contain GMOs.
  • Look for products with the Non-GMO Project Verified seal. These have been tested and vetted by a third party to be GMO-free. (This is the verification program used by Straus Family Creamery.)
  • Support the Center for Food Safety’s legal fund to challenge GE crops in the courts.They’re suing the USDA for deregulating alfalfa.
  • Lodge your protest with the White House through Food & Water Watch.
  • Contact your representatives in the House and Senate to voice your opposition to GMOs. It’s working in the case of GE salmon–in recent weeks, bills to block the fish have been introduced in the House and Senate. [UPDATE: As of October 2013, it looks like the FDA is set to approve sale of the GE fish.]
  • Let your favorite retailers know that you prefer GMO-free food. Consumer activism may go a long way toward keeping GMOs off store shelves, as in the case of Friends of the Earth’s Campaign for GE-Free Seafood.

Organic Vanilla Bean Pudding

organic-vanilla-bean-pudding-recipeThis luscious vanilla pudding is a lesson in why you should use organic milk and eggs in a custard. The USDA’s 2011 decision to deregulate genetically engineered alfalfa raised concerns among organic dairy farmers, who rely on organic alfalfa to feed their herds. Certified organic fare–including milk and eggs–is still your best bet to avoid GMOs (genetically modified organisms). Heck, I even found GMO-free cornstarch to thicken this custard. And, of course, you’ll want to use organic sugar, made from sugar cane to steer clear of sugar made from GE sugar beets.

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Crispy Oatmeal Chocolate Chip Cookies

With a combination of rolled oats, whole wheat pastry flour and all-purpose flour, these healthy chocolate chip cookies strike a nice balance between whole-grain virtue and traditional flavor. If you want to really boost the flavor, try making them with our DIY Ghee instead of regular butter. It takes the flavor and texture to a whole new level. You can change these cookies in any number of ways–substitute raisins or dried cherries for the chocolate chips, use different nuts, etc. When I have dried blueberries on hand, I’ll throw them in along with the chocolate chips and nuts. Have fun with it!

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Smart Guides to Winging It In the Kitchen

We’re big fans of recipes at NOURISH Evolution, and we invest a lot into developing recipes to inspire your time in the kitchen. Over the years, recipes have helped me master skills, get acquainted with new ingredients and discover innovative flavor combos.

Sometimes, though, you want to wing it. Most often, I’m moved to improvise when I need to use up leftover ingredients, and often, that’s motivation enough to just get on with it. But occasionally I need a little inspiration, and we’ve found a quartet of great resources to help.

My favorite these days is The Flavor Thesaurus: Pairings, Recipes and Ideas for the Creative Cook by Niki Segnit. Segnit is a passionate home cook who set out to boost her own understanding of flavors–why one ingredient works with another, the different qualities that make up taste and so forth. The result is 99 ingredients gathered around a flavor wheel with items grouped by qualities, such as “roasted,” “meaty,” “green & grassy,” “fresh fruity” and “woodland.” Segnit doesn’t claim her list is the last word (how could it be?), but the way she writes about flavors and ingredients is engaging and inspiring. She covers plenty of classic combos (chocolate and chile: “one of the original ‘wow’ flavor pairings”) as well as some surprises like pineapple and sage.

Lia’s a huge fan of Sally Scheider’s The Improvisational Cook, which inspires readers with seemingly endless suggestions to embellish, alter and modify recipes. Caramelized onions easily morph into onion jam, onion soup, bruschetta topping or onion dip–and that’s just to start. I love this approach because it really encourages you to take a recipe and run with it.

Another favorite of mine is The Flavor Bible by Karen Page and Andrew Dornenburg, which is a very straightforward listing of ingredients, their qualities and what goes with them. It’s a great quick reference to have on hand.

If you want to delve more deeply into how ingredients work together–turn to Michael Ruhlman’s Ratio: The Simple Codes Behind the Craft of Everyday Cooking. “A culinary ratio is a fixed proportion of one ingredient or ingredients relative to another,” he explains. “These proportions form the backbone of the craft of cooking.” If you already know how to improvise a vinaigrette with 3 parts oil and 1 part vinegar, you already know a basic ratio. Ruhlman’s book explains the details behind the ratios for everything from bread dough to sponge cake to sauces, sausage and custard. His companion smartphone and iPad app puts the basics at your fingertips.

You intuition is a good guide, too. If it tastes good in your mind’s palate, it’s definitely worth a try. Chances are, it’ll be delicious. And if not, so what? In cooking, even failures can lead to future successes since, at the very least, you’ll know what doesn’t work. Here are 3 simple strategies to keep in mind:

  • Pair foods harvested in the same season. The old adage–”if they grow together, they go together”–really works. Lia’s recipe for Roasted Winter Veggies is all about using whatever seasonal root vegetables you find. It doesn’t matter which ones–they all play well together.
  • Foods that hail from the same region are harmonious. Consider wine pairing as an example. As New World cooks, we call on an enormous range of flavors, cuisines and ingredients, which can make pairing wine and food challenging (what should I open with that Indian dish? what works with that Vietnamese recipe?). Old World cooks had it much easier–they simply opened a bottle of local wine to serve with traditional dishes made with local ingredients and it worked because everything had the same terroir.
  • Experiment with fusions based on similar ingredients. Fusing cuisines can be tricky and has been known to inspire some kooky combinations. It can also be inspired, especially if you look for similar ingredients to create a happy marriage on the plate.

Here’s an example: The other week, I had some leftover Carnitas de Lia, which I’ve wanted to use in a riff on a banh mi, the popular pork-filled Vietnamese sandwich. Other fillings that typically go into a banh mi also figure in Mexican fare: cilantro, carrots, cucumbers, hot peppers. So I made a simple guacamole of avocado, salt and lime juice, which I spread on a fresh baguette as a substitute for the more traditional mayonnaise or pate. Then I layered on the carnitas, grated carrots, thinly sliced radishes and cucumbers, some leftover Quick-Pickled Red Onions and cilantro, and topped it with a generous dollop of Sriracha hot sauce.

The result: a thoroughly satisfying improvisation that made our leftovers taste entirely new.