Knead-less Bread-Baking

When it comes to making bread dough, “kneading is an optional and flexible step,” says Harold McGee in his new book Keys to Good Cooking (Penguin Press). If you don’t want to hassle with kneading bread dough, you can let time do the work. The concept of no-knead bread has been around awhile–most recently popularized by Mark Bittman when he wrote about baker Jim Lahey’s technique several years ago in The New York Times. I gave it a try at the time, but my dog Rascal (NOURISH Evolution’s official mascot) ate the dough while it was proofing on the counter and I never got around to trying it again.

That is, until about a month ago, when a friend posted a Facebook link to a no-knead bread recipe by San Francisco-based cookbook author and cooking teacher Penni Wisner. Her recipe was a streamlined version of Lahey’s method and inspired me to give it another go. All went well–the ingredients came together just as she promised, Rascal left the dough alone, and resulting loaf was delicious with a lovely, chewy crust and tender crumb. Even better, letting time instead of elbow grease do the work yields a better-tasting loaf. “It has that long development, which gives it time to really increase in flavor,” says Wisner.

Wisner, who’s passionate about sharing this bread with everyone, agreed to let us share her recipe with the NOURISH Evolution community. She also has a few tips:

Pick the right flour(s). Yes, you can make bread with all-purpose flour, but you’ll get better results if you use bread flour (available at most supermarkets). “I do think it makes a difference,” says Wisner. Bread flour has a higher protein content than all-purpose, so it forms more gluten to give your bread structure.

Wisner also adds a little whole wheat flour. “When you add it whole wheat flour to the mix, your dough acts totally differently,” she says. “It absorbs more water. Also, the dough is more active and ferments faster.” More water in the dough means the bread will have a more tender, loose grain. We both favor mild-flavored white whole wheat flour, but regular whole wheat flour works just as well. (You could use all whole wheat flour, but you’ll end up with a pretty tough-textured loaf.)

Measure carefully. Take a tip from the pros, and use a kitchen scale to weigh out your flour. This ensures consistent results–and it’s easier than aerating the flour, then spooning it into a dry measuring cup and leveling it with a knife.

Mimic a bakery oven. Professional bakers use high-heat ovens with steam to give bread a delightfully chewy crust. You can imitate that by cranking your oven up to 500 degrees F and preheating a Dutch oven. You’ll add the dough to the hot Dutch oven and cover it for the first 30 minutes of baking–this creates the steamy environment. No-knead dough also tends to be loose, and baking it in a Dutch oven yields a loaf with a pretty boule-like shape. “If you do nothing else but change your baking environment and use a Dutch oven, you’ll get better bread,” Wisner promises.

Practice. Wisner’s recipe is good from the first loaf, and it gets even better the more you make it. You’ll get familiar with the climate of your kitchen (if it’s warm, you dough will proof faster and be wetter) and the quirks of your oven, just two factors that can influence dough.

You’ll also become more confident handling the dough. “It’s a soft dough, so it’s not necessarily what you’re accustomed to,” says Wisner. “I think dough responds to confidence. It sticks to you less, when you movements are more confident.” Like many avid bakers, Wisner believes every dough has its own personality. I certainly do, and can’t resist visiting it while it ferments to check on its progress.

I’ve found the biggest challenge is allowing the baked bread to cool enough to slice it. That, and keeping it away from the dog.

Knead-less Olive-Rosemary Bread

We’ve adapted this no-knead homemade bread recipe from San Francisco-based cookbook author and cooking teacher Penni Wisner’s foolproof formula. A long fermentation and baking the bread in a preheated Dutch oven yields artisanal results at home. You can play with different mix-ins–sub golden raisins and walnuts for the olives and rosemary, for instance, or stir in chunks of bittersweet chocolate for a variation of pain au chocolat. For the best results, Wisner recommends using a kitchen scale to weigh the flour, salt and water. It’s an essential for great at-home bread-baking.

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Busy Night Menu for 4

‘Twas the weekend before Christmas and all through the house … everyone was in a flurry of activity. We know what it’s like– a weekend packed with activity, from holiday parties to shopping expeditions to marathon gift-wrapping sessions. Who has time to cook, much less eat? You do, with our streamlined, super-easy Busy Night Menu for 4.

To start:

Whip up a jar of Lia’s Mustard-Shallot Vinaigrette. Use some to dress a simple green salad for dinner tonight, and keep the rest on hand for suppers during the week.

Main event:

My Brussels Sprouts Carbonara with Whole Wheat Fusilli is one of our favorite go-to winter dinners. It’s creamy, comforting and filling. And ready in about 20 minutes. Open a bottle of Chardonnay to pour with this dish.

To finish:

Keep things super-simple and make a platter of Lia’s Chocolate Crostini with Orange Zest and Sea Salt. They’ll satisfy a yen for something sweet and get you out of the kitchen so you can put your feet up and watch a It’s a Wonderful Life or, if you’re in my house, Bad Santa!

Win a Free Download of the New iSpice iPhone/iPad App!

We recently checked in with our favorite spice girl, Monica Bhide, for her tips on the best ways to buy, store and coax more flavor out of your spices. So this week we’re excited to offer two free downloads of Monica’s hot, new culinary iPhone/iPad app, iSpice!

Win a free download of Monica’s new iSpice app for iPhone or iPad!

This is only one of two iPhone apps I’ve paid for (the other being Michael Ruhlman’s Ratio), and I love this app’s comprehensiveness. It covers everything from achiote paste to zhoug. (Thanks to iSpice, I now know zhoug is a Yemeni spice paste made from garlic, hot chiles, tomatoes, cilantro, parsley, olive oil, cumin, turmeric, curry powder and lime juice–sounds delicious!) Each entry tells you want a spice is made from and how it’s typically used, with links to recipes. This app is so thorough that it even lists oregano and stronger-flavored Mexican oregano as separate entries.

But you have to enter to win.

So here’s the deal. Only NOURISH Evolution members are eligible to win, so now’s the time to join if you haven’t already! Then, head on over to the Thursday Giveaway group in our community area and leave a comment to be entered to win (important: be sure you’re signed in to NOURISH Evolution so we can find you).

Lia will announce the winner in next week’s Friday Digest!

Good luck–and, remember, we’ll have two winners this week!

Brussels Sprouts Carbonara with Whole Wheat Fusilli

Whole wheat fusilli and other pasta is a quick-cooking whole grain that pairs well with hearty ingredients like bold-flavored Brussels sprouts and a creamy dressing for a wintry weeknight dish. The liaison of egg yolks and a touch of cream lends the sauce a silky richness so it clings to the pasta. As winter gives way to spring, experiment with other vegetables, such as English peas in place of the Brussels sprouts. If you don’t happen to have pancetta on hand, substitute 2-3 slices of bacon. It’ll be just as delicious, albeit with smokier flavor. (Use the leftover egg whites from this recipe to make a batch of Saffron Cardamom Coconut Macaroons.)

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Q&A with Spice Girl Monica Bhide

This baking-centric season is the ideal time to replace past-their-prime spices with potent, aromatic new ones. (It’s also a good time to double-check your leaveners.) There’s no one better to ask about spices than Monica Bhide. She writes the A Life of Spice of Life blog, authored Modern Spice: Inspired Indian Flavors for the Contemporary Kitchen (Simon & Schuster) among other cookbooks, and just released the iSpice iPhone and iPad app.

Is it really better to buy spices whole and grind them yourself?

I know I sound like a broken record when I tell people to buy most of their spices whole, but here’s the reason: As soon as you grind them, the flavors begin to soften and eventually will go away. Whole spices preserve their flavor longer and, honestly, there is no taste quite like, say, freshly ground rich coriander seeds. You can buy ground spices in a bind but, it’s a better investment to buy them whole and grind them as needed.

There are some exceptions, like turmeric, which I buy pre-ground. And with cinnamon, I buy both the stick and pre-ground cinnamon since it’s one of those ingredients that’s hard to grind well at home. If you’re going to buy ground spices, buy them in small quantities so you use them faster and they don’t sit around forever on your shelf.

What’s the best way to grind spices?

If the quantity is really small and you don’t mind using some elbow grease, then I say mortar and pestle. If not, you can use an [electric] grinder. I have a small grinder that I just keep for spices.

Also, one important note: I don’t grind a spice every time I make a recipe. I usually grind enough for a week at a time. That gives me the freshness without having to bring a grinder out each time I cook.

How should I store spices?

Away from heat and direct light. A cool, dark cabinet is fine.

How do I know when it’s time to replace them?

I have the Thanksgiving rule. Each thanksgiving I take out all my spices. I smell them first, if they have no aroma, they go in the trash (with the exception of cayenne–don’t stick your nose in that!). Also, if spices have been lying around for more than two years and I haven’t used them, out they go. [Editor’s note: Yes, Thanksgiving has come and gone, but if you’re like me, you probably haven’t gotten around to doing this yet. It’s not too late.]

What are some tips to enhance a spice‘s flavor?

First, always use fresh spices–spices that have an aroma, that haven’t been sitting on the shelf since Kennedy was president!

You can dry roast them: Heat a griddle on medium heat, add your spices and keep stirring them until they emit their fragrance. This often happens in seconds, so stay attentive! Burned spices smell bad and there is no way to save them. If they burn, in the trash they go.

Another option is to sizzle spices in hot oil. My personal preference is to use a neutral-flavored oil (such as canola) so the spices can do their magic, but there are many folks who like to cook their spices in say, olive oil. While there is no harm in doing so, why waste a good spice and a good oil? Good olive oil has so much flavor on its own, as do good spices.

How can I experiment with a spice that’s new to me?

Heat some butter and add the new spice in it. Let it simmer for a minute or so in warm butter and then strain it [reserving the butter]. Now, take a small portion of your prepared dish and drizzle this flavored butter on it and see what happens to the taste of the dish. I do this all the time and have created allspice-flavored oatmeal and many other interesting combinations!

How can I spice up my holiday cooking with alternatives to traditional flavors like ginger, cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg or allspice?

I’d recommend adding two spices to your holiday cooking: green cardamom and saffron.They are both diva spices! They give amazing flavor when handled with care. Crush the green cardamom and use the skin and the seeds to flavor cakes, cookies, soups, breads, muffins and more. For saffron, dissolve a few strands in warm milk or water and use it to flavor your breads, rice dishes, muffins, tea, French toast, pancakes. The possibilities are endless and the flavors very rewarding.

Recipes:

Monica’s Saffron Cardamom Coconut Macaroons

Cardamom Gingersnap Cookies

Saffron Cardamom Coconut Macaroons

This recipe, adapted from Monica Bhide’s Modern Spice: Inspired Indian Flavors for the Contemporary Kitchen, is for simple, coconut-y cookies that look like little snowballs. Even better, it uses two spices Bhide loves for holiday baking: saffron and green cardamon, which she calls “diva spices” because of their heady flavor and aroma. For the best results, she recommends buying whole green cardamom pods; grind the skin and seeds in a mortar and pestle or spice grinder. When buying saffron, choose whole threads.

saffron-cardamom-coconut-macaroonsNonstick cooking spray
1 (14-ounce) package shredded sweetened coconut
10 ounces sweetened condensed milk from a 14-ounce can (about a scant cup)
1-1/2 teaspoons ground green cardamom
1 teaspoon saffron threads, crushed
1/4 teaspoon sea salt
2 large egg whites

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F.

Line 2 sheet pans with parchment paper. Lightly spray with nonstick spray.

Combine coconut, condensed milk, cardamom, saffron and salt in a large bowl. (It will form a mixture that is not like typical cookie dough.  But once the egg whites are folded in, the mixture will stay together during baking.)

Place egg whites in a large bowl. Beat with a mixer fitted with a whisk attachment until stiff peaks form (do not overbeat). Gently fold whipped egg whites into coconut mixture. Using a spoon, mold the mixture into tablespoon-size balls and place 1 inch apart on the prepared pans.

Bake at 350 F for 14-16 minutes or until the exterior is very slightly brown, the middle is still soft and the bottoms begin to turn golden brown. Remove from oven.  Allow to cool for 20 minutes on the baking sheets as they will be too fragile to move when hot. Transfer to a wire rack to cool completely. Store in an airtight container for up to a week.

Yields about 3 dozen macaroons

Cardamom Gingersnap Cookies

Inspired by Monica Bhide’s suggestion, we’ve updated traditional gingersnaps with the addition of freshly ground green cardamom for a sweet pungency that underscores the warmth of the ginger. We also use maple syrup instead of traditional, stronger-flavored molasses so the spices can really shine. And for deeper flavor, I’ll use our DIY Ghee instead of regular butter.  A 2-teaspoon cookie scoop is ideal to portion out the dough. Gently flattening the dough with the bottom of a sugar-dipped glass gives them a uniform shape and lends a pretty sparkle to the finished cookies. Or, if you like your gingersnaps thin and crispy, roll the dough to a 1/8-inch thickness and cut it out with a cookie cutter for a spicy spin on traditional sugar cookies. When rolling the dough out, I find it helpful to roll it between two sheets of parchment or waxed paper and chill it for 15 minutes before cutting out shapes. This makes it easier to remove the paper and to cut the cookies cleanly.

cardamom-gingersnap-cookies-recipe1 cup all-purpose flour
3/4 cup whole wheat pastry flour
3/4 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon ground ginger
1/2 teaspoon ground green cardamom
1/8 teaspoon sea salt
6 tablespoons (3 ounces) butter OR DIY Ghee, softened
1/2 cup sugar, plus additional for shaping cookies
1/3 cup maple syrup
1 tablespoon water
Turbinado sugar, for sprinkling (optional)

Preheat oven to 375 degrees F.

Whisk together the first 6 ingredients; set aside.

Place butter and 1/2 cup sugar in a large bowl. Beat with a mixer until thoroughly combined. Add maple syrup and water; beat until thoroughly combined. Beat in flour mixture. Chill dough for 15 minutes.

Drop dough in 2-teaspoonful mounds onto 2 cookie sheets lined with parchment paper. Place about 1/4 cup sugar in a shallow bowl. Dip the bottom of a small glass into regular or turbinado sugar, and use the bottom of the glass to gently flatten each cookis to a 2-inch diameter. (Continue dipping the glass into the sugar as needed to prevent it from sticking to the cookies.) (Or roll dough to 1/8-inch thickness between 2 sheets of parchment or waxed paper, chill 15 minutes, and use a 2-inch cookie cutter to cut out cookies. Then sprinkle cookies with regular or turbinado sugar.)

Bake at 375 F for 12-14 minutes or until light golden-brown. Cool on pans for 2 minutes. Remove from pans and cool completely on a wire rack.

Yields 18 cookies

Sunday Supper with Braised Bison Menu

Cheryl’s story about bison as an alternative to beef inspired the braised entree that’s at the center of this menu for four. Start the bison cooking about 2-1/2 hours before you’re ready to eat and you’ll have plenty of time to pull together the other elements of this menu.

To start:

Begin with a salad made with seasonal ingredients like bitter greens, apples, beets, citrus and other winter fare. Lia has great ideas to improvise with what you find at the market. But if you want a recipe, she offers up a tasty Fennel and Granny Smith Salad with Blue Cheese.

Main event:

I used bison stew meat in this Buffalo Carbonnade for our riff on a Belgian classic that calls for braising the meat in hearty dark ale. The result is a comforting, fork-tender dish that I love served over Celery Root, Potato and Apple Mash. If you want to keep things really easy, simply serve the meat over egg noodles. And, of course, pour a glass of that lovely ale to sip with it. You’ll have some leftovers, which will make wonderful midweek lunches (warm up a container of this in the office microwave and your co-workers will be envious!).

Sweet finish:

A warm, winter meal like this calls for a warm dessert. Try our Chai-Spiced Amaranth Pudding. The recipe calls for serving the pudding chilled, but I can tell you it’s just good–even better with this menu–warm.

Bon appetit!

Win an Oxo Good Grips Melon Baller!

One of Lia’s all-time favorite kitchen tools is humble and versatile: an Oxo Good Grips Melon Baller. She loves it so much that she included it in our roundup of nourishing holiday gifts. “Aside from the fact that it makes balling melons a breeze, I use it to quickly seed squash, scrape seeds from cucumbers, core apples and much more.”

Win a free Oxo Good Grips Melon Baller!

This slim little number has a comfortable ergonomic grip that’s the hallmark of Oxo tools and two stainless-steel heads so you can choose your size. And in addition to picking it up to prep fruits and veggies, you can use it to portion cookie dough for consistently sized treats or to serve up perfect petite scoops of sorbet or ice cream.

But you have to enter to win.

So here’s the deal. Only NOURISH Evolution members are eligible to win, so now’s the time to join if you haven’t already! Then, head on over to the Thursday Giveaway group in our community area and leave a comment to be entered to win (important: be sure you’re signed in to NOURISH Evolution so we can find you).

Lia will announce the winner in next week’s Friday Digest!

Good luck!