Author Archives: Lia Huber

Huber Huevos Rancheros

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This meal is our family’s traditional Christmas Day breakfast. Christopher mans the comal after the Santa festivities, while we all fill our coffee mugs and wait for our plates.

1 cup organic, low-fat refried beans
8 small corn tortillas
2 cups shredded sharp cheddar cheese, divided
2 tablespoons canola oil
4 large eggs
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
sour cream, salsa and hot sauce to taste

Preheat broiler with 2 oven oven racks placed in the top third and bottom third of the oven. Spread a 1/4 cup of beans onto four tortillas, sprinkle each with 1 tablespoon of cheese and top with another tortilla. Arrange on a cookie sheet and broil in the bottom third of the oven for 3-4 minutes, until just turning color and crisping. Flip and cook another 3-4 minutes.

While tortillas are cooking, heat oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium high heat. Swirl the oil and crack the eggs into pan. Cook 2-3 minutes, until whites are just set. Season with salt and pepper.

Take the tortilla pan out and carefully transfer one egg to the top of each tortilla. Sprinkle with the rest of the cheese and broil in the top third of the oven for 1-2 minutes (watch carefully not to burn), until the cheese is bubbly and the egg white is completely set.

Transfer to plates and top with a dollop of sour cream and salsa.

Serves 4

Life Seasons

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Normally, my mom starts e-mailing 3-4 times a day just after Thanksgiving. I’ll see subject lines like “Here’s What I’m Freezing,” and “Food!” and roll my eyes, thinking I don’t have time to think about all that yet if I’m going to tidy up work and take off for the holidays.

Except this year, I got a call from my dad on December 7th that my mom had had a stroke.

The days that mom was in ICU (in Connecticut) and I was in California, the lack of e-mails felt empty and depressing; their ongoing absence a constant reminder that this Christmas—and perhaps the indefinite future–would be very different than my family had envisioned.

I craved comfort food that week. I made Buttermilk Oven Fried Chicken with mashed root vegetables unexpectedly one weeknight, and a taco salad (a Mack family staple) the next. There was something in those foods that connected me to my mother, who I longed so fiercely to be with.

Now that I’m at my mom’s bedside, food continues to play a central theme. She tells me what I should be defrosting and had me bring in the pile of recipes she’d picked out to make. While her roommate, Margaret, and my brother talk classic movies, my mom and I plan Christmas dinner. A recipe, in fact, was the first thing my mother wrote with her therapist.

Not that any of that has translated to my mom’s kitchen yet. To me, it still feels too quiet and too empty without her and, to be honest, I’ve done all I can to avoid it. But I can feel that changing too. Over the past few days I’ve had time to mourn. Now it’s time to hope.

There are the recipes of my own that I’m printing out to cook for my daughter and husband and brother and dad (Alison’s Brussels Sprouts Carbonara and No-Knead Rosemary Olive Loaf are among them). There are the nuggets of nutritional advice that my mom is finally open to hearing and truly adopting.

“But I love potato chips, I love fried food,” Mom said to me pleadingly one afternoon when we were having a chat.

“I know,” I said. “And you don’t have to stop eating them entirely.” I talked about putting a handful of chips on her plate, closing the bag, and focusing on squeezing as much pleasure out of each bite as she could.  A lightbulb went off and I could see her process the possibility that by giving herself less (potato chips) she was actually giving herself more (pleasure without guilt, a favorite food without endangering her health). She looked visibly relieved.

Mom was quiet for a moment. Then she turned to look at me (which is a feat these days). “That Kale and Feta Tartine looked really good though,” she said, referring to a demo I’d just showed her that I’d recently filmed. “I want that on the list for when I get home.”

I’m still not sure when I’ll be able to serve Mom that sandwich at home, but I do know that I’ve already gotten the two greatest Christmas gifts I could ask for (or maybe one’s a birthday gift … I turn 40 today!): that my mom is here with us and that she’s willing to make changes. I’m holding out hope that mom and I (and Noe) will be in the kitchen together for many more Christmases to come.

Mom’s French Dressing Salad Recipe

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This recipe–a zippy, tomato-based salad dressing recipe–is my adaptation of one that was handed down to my mom early on in her marriage by her Aunt Gladys. “This is the French dressing made and used in several of the Italian restaurants in the small town where I grew up, Princeton, IL,” Mom says in her notes. It has been a staple of our family for as long as I can remember. This French dressing adds peppy flavor to salads and sandwiches.


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20-Minute Whole Grains

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I talk a lot about whole grains. And when I do, people often scrunch up their noses and ask, “But don’t whole grains take a lot of time to cook?” The answer is: yes … some do. But others like quinoa, bulgur, rolled oats– even popcorn–take about the same time to cook as white rice. Here are five whole grains you can have on the table in 20 minutes or less.

20-minut-whole-grainsBulgur — Bulgur is made from wheat berries that have been steamed, dried and crushed to result in rough little nuggets that look a lot like steel-cut oats. Bulgur is one of my favorite whole grains, for its fluffy-yet-chewy texture, its versatility and its convenience. Fine- or medium-grind bulgur (it ranges from fine to coarse) cooks in just 10 minutes and makes a great addition to breakfast, salads, main courses … even dessert.

Quinoa – Quinoa is considered a super grain in that it contains all the amino acids necessary to build protein (which is why it’s called a complete protein). Outside of the animal world, that’s an anomaly. Raw quinoa looks like beautiful little beads. But they puff up considerably when cooked (about 15 minutes), into a texture a bit like fluffy oatmeal. I like to have a batch of quinoa on hand in the fridge for mixing into salads, shaping into skillet cakes, or even folding into eggs (Noe loves them that way).

Rolled Oats – Rolled oats (sometimes called “old-fashioned” rolled oats) have all the same nutritional benefits as their more toothsome cousins, steel-cut oats; they’ve just been steamed and rolled flat. Depending on the size, rolled oats will cook in 5 to 15 minutes and can be used interchangeably (adjusting cooking time) with steel-cut oats. They’re also terrific in homemade granola, cookies and breads.

Whole Grain Pastas – Aha! I’ll bet you didn’t expect to see pasta here. But whole grain pastas—whether made from whole wheat, brown rice, or a combination of grains and legumes—have all the nutritional benefits of a whole grain, and they cook as quickly as “white” pasta. Our Brussels Sprouts Carbonara with Whole Wheat Fusilli transformed Alison’s opinion of whole wheat pasta; now it’s a weekly go-to favorite in her household.

Popcorn – Don’t discount popcorn as a whole grain! But do stay away from the microwave variety (or the pre-popped kind already in bags); they tend to be loaded with artificial ingredients and high in sodium. The old-fashioned way of popping popcorn is decidedly easy, though, and takes just under 10 minutes. Heat a tablespoon of canola oil in a large, heavy-bottomed pot over medium-high heat and add ¼ cup popcorn kernels. Swirl around to coat and then put the lid on the pot. In a few minutes you’ll start hearing the ping of the pops. Give the pot a few good shakes (hold the lid so it doesn’t slip off) and take it off the heat when the popping stops. Then top it with whatever you choose (Alison and I discovered we both love truffle oil and sea salt) for a snack, or turn it into a fun dessert.

There you are; five whole grains that cook fast enough you can build them into a weeknight. See … no need to let time keep you from trying whole grains.

5 Recipes to Try:

Brussels Sprouts Carbonara with Whole Wheat Fusilli

Maple Caramel Popcorn

Dark Molasses Cranberry Granola

Lamb Tagine with Preserved Lemon, Dates and Bulgur

Curry Quinoa Cakes

Root Veggie Latkes

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Who says Hanukkah latkes have to be made with potatoes? A trio of root veggies — carrots, parsnips and golden beets — lend our latkes a golden hue and a touch of sweetness while exotic spices add a bit of heat.

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Butternut and Beyond: A Winter Squash Primer

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I’ve talked to a lot of people lately who are intimidated by winter squash. The first barrier they site is the impenetrable shell of skin: Whereas summer squash can be eaten skin, seed and all, only the flesh is edible on winter squash. The second is the daunting variety. Which are edible, what do they taste like, what can you substitute and how do you cook them?

We’ve got answers here in our winter squash guide … to butternut and beyond.

butternut-winter-squash

Choosing a squash: In general, you want a squash that is firm and heavy for its size. If you feel any soft spots or mold, take a pass.

What’s inside? Winter squash are nutritional powerhouses loaded with beta carotene, potassium, folate, lutein and fiber, with very few calories. Their flesh is both filling and satisfying enough to make a meal in and of itself.

Varieties

Butternut
Butternut squash is a lovely buff-colored squash that’s shaped like an oblong gourd with a bubble at one end. Of all the winter squash, Butternut has some of the softest skin (along with Delicata and Acorn); you can easily peel it off with a Y-peeler. Its flesh ranges from pale Dreamsicle to deep orange and is creamy and nutty when cooked. And there’s a good amount of it; the entire neck is seedless.

How to use it: Butternut is a super-flexible squash and my favorite for cubing and roasting. Halve, seed, brush with oil and roast flesh side down at 400 for 50-60 minutes; or peel, cube, toss with olive oil and seasonings and roast at 450 for 40-50 minutes, turning occasionally. Use roasted squash in risotto, soup or as a spread for sandwiches or pizza.

Substitute: acorn or Buttercup.

Acorn
It used to be acorn squash were dark green with an occasional orange mottle, but nowadays this squash comes in all sorts of colors and patterns, like the spotted Carnival variety above. Although acorn’s skin is even thinner than butternut, its deep grooves make it more difficult to peel. Its flesh is sweet, but stringier than the rest.

How to use it: I like to cut this squash into wide slices or wedges and roast them with a sticky-sweet glaze. Halve, seed and brush with oil. Then slice or roast halves at 425 for 20-40 minutes.

Substitute: butternut or delicata.

Kabocha
Most kabocha squash are somewhat squat, with lumpy, shiny, dark green skin. Although I’ve also been finding kabochas with pale blue skin (above) which look a bit like miniature Hubbards. Regardless of the external color, the flesh of a kabocha is deep reddish-orange and dense in both texture and flavor when cooked.

How to use it: Kabocha makes a wonderful roasting squash and I find it melds well with Eastern-leaning flavors. Halve, seed, brush with oil and roast flesh down at 400 for 60-75 minutes. Scrape out flesh and use in soups, pasta or a mash. Or seed, stuff and roast whole.

Substitute: Buttercup.

Sweet Dumpling
Shaped like a miniature pumpkin with pale yellow, green-striped skin, Sweet Dumplings have deep orange flesh that’s mild, dry and sweet—almost like a sweet potato.

How to use it: The main draw of Sweet Dumplings is that they’re so darned cute. Stuff and roast them whole or ladle in soup for serving. Seed and roast at 400 F for 50-60 minutes.

Substitute: kabocha or buttercup.

Delicata
Delicata are beautiful oblong squash with gently-ridged, butter-colored skin and dark green stripes. It’s the most perishable squash of the bunch because its skin is so thin (so thin, in fact, it’s edible). The flesh is light, sweet and kind of cakey-moist in a good way.

How to use it: Halve and seed the squash, brush with oil, cut into slices and roast at 400 F for 20-30 minutes.

Substitute: acorn squash.

Buttercup
Similar in appearance to a kabocha squash, but with slightly smoother, lighter green skin that grows a “turban” as it ages. Buttercup’s flesh is bright orange, smooth and creamy with voluptuous flavor and hazelnut overtones when cooked.

How to use it: Halve, seed, brush with oil and roast flesh down at 400 F for 60-75 minutes. Scrape out flesh and use in soups, pasta or a mash. Or seed, stuff and roast whole.

Substitute: butternut or kabocha.

Millet-Stuffed Kabocha Squash with Indian Spices

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Millet is a gluten-free whole grain that soaks up flavors something fierce — in this case, the heady mix of Indian spices that pair so beautifully with Kabocha squash.

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What to Serve with the Thanksgiving Bird

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When you live in wine country, there is no shortage of opinions on what wine to serve with the Thanksgiving bird. But I knew exactly who I wanted to turn to for advice: my friend and long-time colleague, encourager, and person you look forward to hanging out with at conferences, Jill Hough.

I remember standing in line with Jill at the airport four years ago talking about the projects we had brewing. When she told me about the book she had in the works, 100 Perfect Pairings: Small Plates to Enjoy with Wines You Love, she said, “I just want people to be able to enjoy wine, not be intimidated by it.” I love that about her.

Here, Jill gives us down-to-earth, unintimidating advice on what to serve with the bird (and the sweet potatoes, and the green beans, and …).

LH: OK, let’s start with the biggie … white or red?

JH: It depends. (LH – Oh good, I was hoping you’d say that!). The main flavors in any dish are always more important than the main ingredient, and you want to pair for the main flavor. The other reason it depends is because turkey is one of those foods that is heavy for a white meat. It could really go with a heavy white or a light red.

The trickiest thing about Thanksgiving dinner is that there are often sweet things on the table, and sweet foods will always make a wine taste more sour. So if you tend towards the sweet—candied yams, sweet cranberry relish and such—you may want to go with a Gewürztraminer, which is heavy enough for the richness of the meal, but able to deal with the sweetness. If you lean more towards savory, then you could go two ways. One way is with a light red, like a Pinot Noir or a Beaujolais (but not Nouveau). Or you could go Chardonnay, which is a “big” white in itself.

LH: You know how people tend to skip meals before Thanksgiving dinner, and then absolutely gorge? Any suggestions on preventing that?

JH: (laughs) I’d suggest some simple nibbles beforehand. Nuts are great, as are spreads and toasts. Cheese can run the gamut from light to heavy. I like to set out a couple of light cheeses, nuts, dried fruit and, bam, you’re done. It’s OK to put out a little bit, and then when it’s gone be done with it. It doesn’t make you a bad hostess if you don’t have food out constantly.

LH: How much wine should you plan on pouring?

JH: I would say plan at least a half bottle per person and if it’s an all day affair, another ¼ bottle per person.

LH: That can add up when you’ve got 12, 14, 18 people around your dining room table. Any tips on not busting the budget?

JH: I’d suggest asking people to bring a bottle. We often feel like we want to have complete control over the “Thanksgiving experience,” but if you let people bring things then they have a stake and feel more involved. Brining a bottle of wine is a great way to have people contribute.

Here’s my question for y’all: What are YOU drinking this Thanksgiving?

Coppa-Wrapped Dates with Blue Cheese

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This appetizer recipe uses seasonal dates and is adapted from Jill Hough’s 100 Perfect Pairings: Small Plates to Enjoy with Wines You Love, a terrific book with simple, straightforward guidance (and super-tasty recipes) on enjoying wine and food … together. This little nibble, to me, is the winter equivalent to one of our favorite summer appetizers with figs and prosciutto and cooked on the grill. I’m grateful I don’t have to wait half a year! Jill suggests pairing this dish with a Cabernet Sauvignon or meaty Syrah.

coppa-wrapped-dates-blue-cheese12 Medjool dates, pitted and halved lengthwise
2 ounces blue cheese
12 thin slices coppa, cut in half lengthwise

Preheat oven to 450 degrees F. Line a baking sheet with foil.

Stuff each date half with a ball of blue cheese a little larger than a hazelnut. Wrap a slice of coppa around the date and set on the baking sheet. Bake until the coppa is slightly crisped and the cheese is bubbly, 5-7 minutes. Serve warm.

Serves 8